Sunday, February 25, 2007

Don't get lost

(Written February 16)
I don't know if it's luck or skill or a bit of both, but I haven't had too much trouble finding my way around every new place I come to. It helps that most places here are rather small and have essentially one main road with a bunch of side streets. But on the occasion that I have found myself in need of direction, it can happen that the following conversation might occur:
Luke (L): "Sabaidee. Do you know where I can find a guesthouse?"
Local (L2): "Guest house".
L: "Yes, guesthouse".
L2: "Guesthouse" [it's said as a statement, not a question]
L: "Um yes, a guesthouse. For sleeping [gesturing accordingly]".
L2: "Uh." [this is a very common statement here and seems to mean just about anything at all, so no help there]
L: "Guesthouse this way?" [pointing down lane, simplifying conversation to bare necessities]
L2: "Uh uh!", nodding the head suddenly. He then says a BUNCH of stuff in Laos (none of which I comprehend) and waves his hand in a vague way that brings to mind a maestro conducting an orchestra while asleep. I assume this is meant as a way to point me down a street and turn at some point, so I try to repeat the gesture.
L: "This way", I point straight down the lane, "and then turn left at the corner?" (again, what I believe to be a clear sign of direction and hoping just to get started in the correct direction)
L2: "Uh. [gestures vaguely]...then rye ["right", I think]". This would be a good turn of events, if he hadn't just pointed left.
L: "Okay, so I go this way...", and repeat the sequence of gestures I'd done earlier for confirmation.
L2: Without responding, he turns back towards his shop and yells at someone (his wife, I presume, since the women clearly run this country). She shows up, and I have the EXACT same conversation with her, except that they talk a whole bunch and she seems noncomittal as to which direction I go. Eventually they just go back to whatever they were doing, clearly becoming bored with the conversation.
L: Finally - exhausted, sweaty from the bus or train ride, and still having no idea where I'm going - I cut my losses by saying khawp jai lai lai (thank you very much) and begin looking for another person to repeat the experience with.

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