If you, the reader, are destined to be my future wife then stop reading right now.
Udaipur truly is a city of romance, and I could someday imagine proposing to my (future) fiancee here. I've never known what a "romantic" city would be like before coming here but now it makes perfect sense. Newcomers can get lost (both literally and figuratively) amidst the jumbled collection of eclectic houses, seperated from each other by narrow winding lanes where motorcyles and pedestrians must compete with cows and donkeys for space. Sitting on the rooftops watching the sun set or rise over the city and its precious lakes is like nothing I've ever experienced.
After a day of wandering, getting lost, and finding yourself anew, there is always a great meal to be had for cheap at one of these restaurants. With views of Lake Pichola and its island-temples, a person's mind drifts inevitably to thoughts of romance and love.
Though it is the start of summer here and the thermometer makes daily trips to the mid-30's, it's a dry heat and all it takes to cool down is a cold bottle of water and a shady perch at any of the restaurants.
I'm so relieved to have finally found a place like Udaipur. After dashing around for over a week down south in search of fascinating sights, this place stands out like an oasis in the desert. A few days here have rejuvinated my passion for travelling India, and I feel like a new person (or rather, more like the person I really am). To quote the immortal wisdom of Frank Castanza, "I'm like a phoenix, rising!"
Friday, March 30, 2007
Unexpected meetings
(Written 28 March)
So, I'm happy again. I decided that I was too bored with the south to bother travelling overland anymore, and so bought a last minute flight to Mumbai (formerly Bombay). Furthermore, I didn't want to deal with the usual hassle associated with finding accomodation at a reasonable price in a new city. Instead, I finally made use of my association with an online resource for travellers (www.hospitalityclub.org) and rang up a perfect stranger in search of accomodation. I wound up getting in touch with Chetan and his wife Manju, both successful businesspeople in the city. More to the point though, they are both incredibly kind and generous hosts. They not only provided me with a very comfortable place to stay in their home, but also set me up with a guide for the old part of the city (full of winding alleyways and the like), took me to an art gallery opening, and gave me great advice about where to go in India. It turns out that they both travel quite a bit for work, and we've made tentative plans to meet up again in Switzerland in just a few week's time.
Since I arrived here, I have been stress-free for the first time since arriving in India. Nevertheless, I am going to try to get another standby flight tomorrow, this time bound for Udaipur in the desert state of Rajastan.
So, I'm happy again. I decided that I was too bored with the south to bother travelling overland anymore, and so bought a last minute flight to Mumbai (formerly Bombay). Furthermore, I didn't want to deal with the usual hassle associated with finding accomodation at a reasonable price in a new city. Instead, I finally made use of my association with an online resource for travellers (www.hospitalityclub.org) and rang up a perfect stranger in search of accomodation. I wound up getting in touch with Chetan and his wife Manju, both successful businesspeople in the city. More to the point though, they are both incredibly kind and generous hosts. They not only provided me with a very comfortable place to stay in their home, but also set me up with a guide for the old part of the city (full of winding alleyways and the like), took me to an art gallery opening, and gave me great advice about where to go in India. It turns out that they both travel quite a bit for work, and we've made tentative plans to meet up again in Switzerland in just a few week's time.
Since I arrived here, I have been stress-free for the first time since arriving in India. Nevertheless, I am going to try to get another standby flight tomorrow, this time bound for Udaipur in the desert state of Rajastan.
Monday, March 26, 2007
Very Un-Luke
If India is an exercise in patience, I am grossly out of shape. I like to think of myself as a naturally relaxed, uncomplicated sort of person who doesn't rouse to anger without due cause. India, it turns out, is providing ample cause. Not an hour goes by that I'm not presented with a situation (or person) that irritates unecessarily. Drivers deliberately take detours and then try to charge more than the agreed price, people shove their way to the front of whatever line happens to exist, and the food (though delicious) often takes twice as long to get to me as it does to the two Indians sitting right next to me, and so much more. And of course, EVERYONE tries their damndest to get me to part with extra rupees.
Now, I don't mind putting up with all of these vexing scenarios, provided there is a reason for it. So far, I've yet to see anything worth writing home about (hence the lack of journals). The south is simply uninteresting from my perspective as a first time visitor. I've finally had it up to here (right up around the bridge of my nose), and I'm flying from here in Bangalore up to Mumbai tonight. I'm optimistic that the northwestern desert state of Rajastan will provide some sites worth visiting. If not, I think I'm going to punch someone soon. Anyone'll do.
The kid sitting next to me (who, incidentally, runs this internet shop) is looking at porn with nothing resembling discretion. Earlier this morning, a man took a break from cleaning the bathroom to watch me pee. What the hell is going on here?!
Now, I don't mind putting up with all of these vexing scenarios, provided there is a reason for it. So far, I've yet to see anything worth writing home about (hence the lack of journals). The south is simply uninteresting from my perspective as a first time visitor. I've finally had it up to here (right up around the bridge of my nose), and I'm flying from here in Bangalore up to Mumbai tonight. I'm optimistic that the northwestern desert state of Rajastan will provide some sites worth visiting. If not, I think I'm going to punch someone soon. Anyone'll do.
The kid sitting next to me (who, incidentally, runs this internet shop) is looking at porn with nothing resembling discretion. Earlier this morning, a man took a break from cleaning the bathroom to watch me pee. What the hell is going on here?!
Thursday, March 22, 2007
Iiiinteresting
I've only been here four days, but I'm making my way steadily up the coast. I started in Trivandrum, and have moved on to Varkala, Allepey, and now Ernakulum. Although I have yet to be very impressed with the unique culture in these cities, I have had a few experiences worth remembering. These include: helping fifty villagers pull in a HUGE net from the beach by hand (it took an hour and a half, and we nearly didn't make it), having an Indian outfit custom made for me (it's super thin and absolute heaven in a breeze), and being driven around for two hours by a tuk-tuk driver for free. His only requirement was that I had to stop in a few very expensive shops for five minutes. He claimed he didn't get paid by the shops, but I didn't pay him either so I don't know how that worked out for him. He kept saying, "You happy, my happy". Whatever, free-ninety-free is within my budget!
Tonight I go to a Kathakali show, which is apparently an ancient form of storytelling through interpretive dance, intricit hand movements, and elaborate face paint. Sign me up!
(Oh, and as far as the new and delicious foods I've tried this includes: masala dosa, iddly, vada, oothappam, porrosa, cinnamon tree bark, and buttermilk which is made up of milk, salt, ginger, and chilies)
Tonight I go to a Kathakali show, which is apparently an ancient form of storytelling through interpretive dance, intricit hand movements, and elaborate face paint. Sign me up!
(Oh, and as far as the new and delicious foods I've tried this includes: masala dosa, iddly, vada, oothappam, porrosa, cinnamon tree bark, and buttermilk which is made up of milk, salt, ginger, and chilies)
Say what??
(Written March 18)
They say that India has the most english speaking people of any country in the world. So how come I can't understand 90% of what they say? Seriously, I had less trouble communicating in Laos than here and that includes several conversations with villagers that were based almost entirely on hand gestures. Here, if someone doesn't understand me (which happens rather more than I like) the verbal response is almost always, "Yes". I can be asking for a recommendation of the best fish, telling someone that I've been in India for less than 24 hours, or asking where the nearest tourist information centre is. It doesn't matter: the answer is "Yes". As if that weren't enough, most everyone I've talked to ("at" is more like it) accompanies their monosyllabic response with a curious side to side head wobble. This MUST have been the source of inspiration for whomever created the hugely successful bobble-head figurines because the resemblance is uncanny. Just as "Yes" serves as a catch-all reply to anything, the head wobble too seems to be appropriate for any situation. It's basically useless that way, as far as I can tell, because there's never a moment when a head wobble is out of place and thus doesn't really serve to convey any relevant information:
"Excuse me, do you know where the blah blah guesthouse is?"
"Yes" [head wobble]
"Great! Where is it?"
"Yes" [wobble wobble]
[Wait five seconds] "Which way is it? Is it that way?"
"Yes, yes." [vigourous wobble]
"That way?" (pointing)
[wobble]
"Okay, what the f*#k? Thanks anyways, bye."
[you guessed it: wobble wobble]
Now, I don't mean to be culturally insensitive. I'm just trying to work out how I'm going to find anything. On the plus side, the food is amazing. Masala dosa...heaven on tongue!
They say that India has the most english speaking people of any country in the world. So how come I can't understand 90% of what they say? Seriously, I had less trouble communicating in Laos than here and that includes several conversations with villagers that were based almost entirely on hand gestures. Here, if someone doesn't understand me (which happens rather more than I like) the verbal response is almost always, "Yes". I can be asking for a recommendation of the best fish, telling someone that I've been in India for less than 24 hours, or asking where the nearest tourist information centre is. It doesn't matter: the answer is "Yes". As if that weren't enough, most everyone I've talked to ("at" is more like it) accompanies their monosyllabic response with a curious side to side head wobble. This MUST have been the source of inspiration for whomever created the hugely successful bobble-head figurines because the resemblance is uncanny. Just as "Yes" serves as a catch-all reply to anything, the head wobble too seems to be appropriate for any situation. It's basically useless that way, as far as I can tell, because there's never a moment when a head wobble is out of place and thus doesn't really serve to convey any relevant information:
"Excuse me, do you know where the blah blah guesthouse is?"
"Yes" [head wobble]
"Great! Where is it?"
"Yes" [wobble wobble]
[Wait five seconds] "Which way is it? Is it that way?"
"Yes, yes." [vigourous wobble]
"That way?" (pointing)
[wobble]
"Okay, what the f*#k? Thanks anyways, bye."
[you guessed it: wobble wobble]
Now, I don't mean to be culturally insensitive. I'm just trying to work out how I'm going to find anything. On the plus side, the food is amazing. Masala dosa...heaven on tongue!
Saturday, March 17, 2007
SE Asia no more
Tomorrow I fly to India, to begin the next neurotic (and undoubtedly memorable) stage of this trip. In the two months that I've travelled Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia, I have...
-accidentally "discovered" the most beautiful temples I've ever seen (Ayuthaya)
-been offered at least a dozen jobs
-shared more meals with local strangers than I can recall
-learned how to tell a woman that she is beautiful in Thai (they're ALL gorgeous!)
-named a constellation after a remote mountain village in northern Thailand
-eaten a raw duck egg that I plucked out of a small stream behind a villager's farm in Laos
-come to really enjoy a round of thwart-the-scam-artist-with-humor
-been warned not to get too friendly with a hill-tribe villager, in case her husband comes around
-met a 10-month old girl who has the cutest Yoda ears I've seen since...well, since Yoda
-been invited into the homes of two honest tuk-tuk drivers
-bartered unsuccesfully for two hours for a ride, then settled on another driver for a higher fare
-been invited to live and work with a Thai family
-cuddled with a drunken dutchman, to stave off hypothermia
-played futbol with local kids on a sandy island in the middle of a river
-accidentally left behind my favorite beanie, a jacket, ear plugs, two shirts, and a hat at various guesthouses
-broken a no-puke streak that was nearly two decades long
-swam with water buffalos in the Mekong river
-made plans to go ice fishing with a Finn
-been outsmarted by a little girl at tic-tac-toe
-taken exactly one hot shower
-met a poor, uneducated Cambodian boy who could name the capital of every country Sam and I threw at him
-eaten foods so spicy it pains my tongue even now just thinking about it
-seen mammals unidentifiable even to me, on sale for food
-driven a tuk-tuk through a coconut farm
-been woken up by the call of wild gibbons in Khao Yai National Park
-etc., etc.
I never thought I'd say this, but I love this part of the world. I'm really going to miss Thailand in particular. Many thanks to those who made the last two months what they were.
-accidentally "discovered" the most beautiful temples I've ever seen (Ayuthaya)
-been offered at least a dozen jobs
-shared more meals with local strangers than I can recall
-learned how to tell a woman that she is beautiful in Thai (they're ALL gorgeous!)
-named a constellation after a remote mountain village in northern Thailand
-eaten a raw duck egg that I plucked out of a small stream behind a villager's farm in Laos
-come to really enjoy a round of thwart-the-scam-artist-with-humor
-been warned not to get too friendly with a hill-tribe villager, in case her husband comes around
-met a 10-month old girl who has the cutest Yoda ears I've seen since...well, since Yoda
-been invited into the homes of two honest tuk-tuk drivers
-bartered unsuccesfully for two hours for a ride, then settled on another driver for a higher fare
-been invited to live and work with a Thai family
-cuddled with a drunken dutchman, to stave off hypothermia
-played futbol with local kids on a sandy island in the middle of a river
-accidentally left behind my favorite beanie, a jacket, ear plugs, two shirts, and a hat at various guesthouses
-broken a no-puke streak that was nearly two decades long
-swam with water buffalos in the Mekong river
-made plans to go ice fishing with a Finn
-been outsmarted by a little girl at tic-tac-toe
-taken exactly one hot shower
-met a poor, uneducated Cambodian boy who could name the capital of every country Sam and I threw at him
-eaten foods so spicy it pains my tongue even now just thinking about it
-seen mammals unidentifiable even to me, on sale for food
-driven a tuk-tuk through a coconut farm
-been woken up by the call of wild gibbons in Khao Yai National Park
-etc., etc.
I never thought I'd say this, but I love this part of the world. I'm really going to miss Thailand in particular. Many thanks to those who made the last two months what they were.
Sam goes home
(Written March 16)
It wasn't our first trip together, but it was memorable nonetheless. After making my way solo through northern Thailand, down through Laos, and back to Bangkok at a leisurely pace, I found my head sort of spinning from the quick five day trip in Cambodia with Sam. I have to give him credit though: if we'd gone at my pace, we wouldn't have seen half the stuff that we did. We saw several museums, cruised through some great markets, and of course saw the wonder that is Angkor. We even managed to witness firsthand the corruption of some nasty police looking to make a dollar from a honest, hard-working tuk-tuk driver. If that wasn't enough, we kept this pace despite the food poisoning that wreaked havoc on poor Sam's system.
Historically, he is noted for his ability to fall asleep at a hat's notice when on holiday. He outdid himself this time though, as it seemed like he fell asleep nearly anywhere there was a chance to. Be it at an art gallery, in a ancient temple, or just at the guesthouse, old Sam took the opportunity to rest and recuperate when it was available. For a while there, I thought he was a goner.
I'm not sure, but I think he hates ice now.
Oh, and did I mention that we took turns driving a tuk-tuk? Check out the pictures!
It wasn't our first trip together, but it was memorable nonetheless. After making my way solo through northern Thailand, down through Laos, and back to Bangkok at a leisurely pace, I found my head sort of spinning from the quick five day trip in Cambodia with Sam. I have to give him credit though: if we'd gone at my pace, we wouldn't have seen half the stuff that we did. We saw several museums, cruised through some great markets, and of course saw the wonder that is Angkor. We even managed to witness firsthand the corruption of some nasty police looking to make a dollar from a honest, hard-working tuk-tuk driver. If that wasn't enough, we kept this pace despite the food poisoning that wreaked havoc on poor Sam's system.
Historically, he is noted for his ability to fall asleep at a hat's notice when on holiday. He outdid himself this time though, as it seemed like he fell asleep nearly anywhere there was a chance to. Be it at an art gallery, in a ancient temple, or just at the guesthouse, old Sam took the opportunity to rest and recuperate when it was available. For a while there, I thought he was a goner.
I'm not sure, but I think he hates ice now.
Oh, and did I mention that we took turns driving a tuk-tuk? Check out the pictures!
Friday, March 09, 2007
What a Wat!
Angkor Wat....whooo hoo!! It's huge, beautiful, and awesome. On the downside, it is swarming with herds of Japanese tour groups (I call them Agoraphobic sheep). Nevertheless, Sam and I were able to take great pictures and even find some very peaceful places to enjoy views of the surrounding forests. "Forests?", you ask. I was surprised too. While the temple itself is truly wonderful, the land it sits on is just as worthy of mention. The tranquil forests surrounding the massive temple is perfect for a quiet stroll when you've had enough of the throngs of tourists. Pehraps best of all, the $20 ticket gets you access to a number of other intriguing temples as well. Ta Phrom is perhaps one of the more well known, as it is the place where the creeping roots of massive trees are slowly tearing the ancient temple apart. You don't have to run off to your room to pack your bags in order to see the temple before it's gone though, because there is currently an ongoing project to restore much of the temple without destroying the enormous trees. According to the leaf-raker (who also became my guide for making great pictures), it should take about ten years to complete the rebuilding effort. Let's put it this way, I'd come back tomorrow to see it, so in ten years I'll definitely be ready to return.
Saturday, March 03, 2007
Beloved King
His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, Rama 1X is the longest reigning king in the world, having been the head of the country for an incredible 60 years. For sixty years he has maintained a reputation for working tirelessly for the benefit of the Thai people. Because of this, Thais pay their respects to him everywhere you look. With the notable exception of Pattaya (see previous entry), every city, town, and village that I've been to in Thailand has been riddled with the king's flag and enormous photographs. On top of this, every Monday is the King's day and most Thais wear the yellow shirt that commemorates their adored leader. Walking along the busy streets of Bangkok on a Monday is a bit disorienting, because it feels like you're walking into the sun: everyone is wearing yellow. While I don't have a shirt, I do wear the yellow rubber wristband (just like the Lance Armstrong one) that say "Long Live the King". At the movie theatres, you are expected to stand while a video commemorating the king plays prior to start of the film.
I don't actually know for sure what he has accomplished to warrant such praise (it's hard to unravel 60 years of history while backpacking for one month), but I've asked a few people just what it is about him that people admire so much. I was amazed when I heard things like, "He works so hard, more than anyone in Thailand", and, "He is like a father and a big brother to us all". Moreover, he seems unusally gifted in a wide variety of fields (perhaps broadening his appeal even further). He's been a scientist, a painter, a carpenter, a photographer (when was the last time you saw George Bush or Tony Blair take loving pictures of the hardworking citizens of their countries?), a jazz musician (from his time spent in Switzerland as a youth), and more.
I have yet to travel into southern Thailand, but it would be interesting to see if love for the King is as unanimous there (particularly in the three troubled provinces bordering Malaysia) as it seems to be everywhere else.
Long live the King!
I don't actually know for sure what he has accomplished to warrant such praise (it's hard to unravel 60 years of history while backpacking for one month), but I've asked a few people just what it is about him that people admire so much. I was amazed when I heard things like, "He works so hard, more than anyone in Thailand", and, "He is like a father and a big brother to us all". Moreover, he seems unusally gifted in a wide variety of fields (perhaps broadening his appeal even further). He's been a scientist, a painter, a carpenter, a photographer (when was the last time you saw George Bush or Tony Blair take loving pictures of the hardworking citizens of their countries?), a jazz musician (from his time spent in Switzerland as a youth), and more.
I have yet to travel into southern Thailand, but it would be interesting to see if love for the King is as unanimous there (particularly in the three troubled provinces bordering Malaysia) as it seems to be everywhere else.
Long live the King!
Friday, March 02, 2007
2nd overseas birthday
(Written March 1)
I'm back in Ayuthaya again, staying with the wonderful Thai family that I met the first time I was here (back in January). It's been one of those doing-nothing-is-still-doing-something experiences. Gift, Beau, and their mother, Jane (my Thai mama!) have been wonderful to spend time with, as I'd remembered from the last visit. On day one (3 days ago), Gift said that she wanted to take advantage of her brief holiday (she's just graduated high school, and Beau will be done this weekend) by going to the beach. After a significant amount of discussion and planning (I almost gave up on the whole idea), it was agreed that I would go with Gift and Ying, a family friend, to Pattaya for a two day, one night trip. There really isn't much good to say about Pattaya, except that it's one of those places worth seeing once. I think Gift and Ying were entertained by the fact that nearly every single Thai girl we walked by said something to me to try and get my business ("Hi handsome", "Where you go?", "You come alone?"). There was no sign of the usual Thai conservative culture, and interestingly it's the only place I've been in Thailand where you have to search to find pictures of the king. Maybe this is one place where the locals don't want to be seen by the king, or vice versa. The place is a bit like Las Vegas combined with Miami beach, with a healthy dose of sleaziness mixed in. There are no Thai men, only fat, greasy farang with beautiful young Thai women hanging on their arms. This would be fine, except the men have a look of greedy pride on their faces that suggests they've done well to purchase this girl, and the Thai women put on a hopelessly cheerful act of being overjoyed at being on the arm of this guy, yet when he looks away they have the most pained look on their faces. Whether it's from boredom or depression, I don't know. Maybe shame.
While Pattaya itself left little to be desired, I had a really great time with Gift and Ying. I pretended to be married to Ying and the father of Gift in order to protect myself from the local girls' attention. It didn't really work, but it was good for a laugh between the three of us.
Upon returning to Ayuthaya yesterday, I've just spent time at the two businesses that the family has (bike rental, bike rental plus guesthouse) with them. We watched some futbol (okay, I watched and they laughed at my complete absorption in the game), had some fruit shakes, ate yummy Thai food (note: if a Thai person says these peppers are not spicy, don't believe it!), and joked around. I offered Gift some business ideas for her to earn money to travel to Italy or Australia sooner, but for some reason she rejected them all. Juggling oranges in the street and singing, "Rent a bike, rent a bike, rent a bike heeeeeere!" sounds like a great business plan. I don't know why she didn't like that one.
Anyhow, I was surprised and honoured when Jane (mama) told me that I am a "good boy" and that I should come back to Ayuthaya someday to live and work with them. I would love to do it. After all, khon thai khawp (I am Thai)!
It's been a great birthday.
I'm back in Ayuthaya again, staying with the wonderful Thai family that I met the first time I was here (back in January). It's been one of those doing-nothing-is-still-doing-something experiences. Gift, Beau, and their mother, Jane (my Thai mama!) have been wonderful to spend time with, as I'd remembered from the last visit. On day one (3 days ago), Gift said that she wanted to take advantage of her brief holiday (she's just graduated high school, and Beau will be done this weekend) by going to the beach. After a significant amount of discussion and planning (I almost gave up on the whole idea), it was agreed that I would go with Gift and Ying, a family friend, to Pattaya for a two day, one night trip. There really isn't much good to say about Pattaya, except that it's one of those places worth seeing once. I think Gift and Ying were entertained by the fact that nearly every single Thai girl we walked by said something to me to try and get my business ("Hi handsome", "Where you go?", "You come alone?"). There was no sign of the usual Thai conservative culture, and interestingly it's the only place I've been in Thailand where you have to search to find pictures of the king. Maybe this is one place where the locals don't want to be seen by the king, or vice versa. The place is a bit like Las Vegas combined with Miami beach, with a healthy dose of sleaziness mixed in. There are no Thai men, only fat, greasy farang with beautiful young Thai women hanging on their arms. This would be fine, except the men have a look of greedy pride on their faces that suggests they've done well to purchase this girl, and the Thai women put on a hopelessly cheerful act of being overjoyed at being on the arm of this guy, yet when he looks away they have the most pained look on their faces. Whether it's from boredom or depression, I don't know. Maybe shame.
While Pattaya itself left little to be desired, I had a really great time with Gift and Ying. I pretended to be married to Ying and the father of Gift in order to protect myself from the local girls' attention. It didn't really work, but it was good for a laugh between the three of us.
Upon returning to Ayuthaya yesterday, I've just spent time at the two businesses that the family has (bike rental, bike rental plus guesthouse) with them. We watched some futbol (okay, I watched and they laughed at my complete absorption in the game), had some fruit shakes, ate yummy Thai food (note: if a Thai person says these peppers are not spicy, don't believe it!), and joked around. I offered Gift some business ideas for her to earn money to travel to Italy or Australia sooner, but for some reason she rejected them all. Juggling oranges in the street and singing, "Rent a bike, rent a bike, rent a bike heeeeeere!" sounds like a great business plan. I don't know why she didn't like that one.
Anyhow, I was surprised and honoured when Jane (mama) told me that I am a "good boy" and that I should come back to Ayuthaya someday to live and work with them. I would love to do it. After all, khon thai khawp (I am Thai)!
It's been a great birthday.
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