Since moving to Pacific Grove, I've been told about a half dozen times that I "look familiar". At various times since high school I've been told that I resemble Boris Becker and Seth Green, but I haven't ever had so many people give me the same double-take you give a person when you're pretty sure you went to Elementary School with them. It's kind of wierd, actually. I keep thinking that there must be some television personality around here that has the good fortune of looking like me, but so far I've not been able to identify such a person.
I'm finally starting to get my name known and respected at the various dive shops and whale watching operations in Monterey. It's a really rewarding feeling to volunteer to work on a boat for a day, for no pay, as a sort of working interview, and at the end of it have them tell me that "you can work with us anytime". That's happened three times now, and I'm excited about the prospect of getting a lot of work once the holidays are over. It's really rather ironic that the diveboats all struggle to get a full guest list during the wintertime, when here in California that is by far the best time to dive. Just today, I went out for the first time with a boat and wound up leading a buddy pair for their two dives. The visibility was between 50 and 80 feet and we were the only boat out there! Overall I am very happy with the way things went, both with the crew and with the guests. I kept one woman from bolting to the surface twice, including when she "suddenly" ran out of air (how that goes unnoticed is beyond me, since prevention involves simply looking at your air gauge every so often), I handled the boat lines and anchoring system well, and even managed to grab six golf balls from the bottom. We were about 300 yards offshore, so I don't know who the hell is hitting the balls out there but maybe they ought to call up the PGA. We also saw three sea otters, and were escorted underwater by a young sea lion for awhile.
All in all, things are looking better. There are still a couple of things that concern me (the housemate situation, the drunken neighbor who keeps leering at me and saying, "If only I were 30 years younger...uh!", the fact that I no longer have a bed, etc.), but I'm hoping that these things will become irrelevant or dealt with in time.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Employed...sort of
It looks like my days of being unemployed are numbered. That (along with the fact that I've moved into an apartment that is literally a stone's throw from a beautiful beach) is the good news. The less good news is that I'll probably be working at two or three places simultaneously in order to work at least five days per week. Several dive boats have expressed interest in hiring me as a weekend divemaster, which, in conjuction with scrubbing boat hulls in the harbor (while on scuba), should keep me busy for 3 to 4 days per week. Now I need to find work for a couple more days during the week. It's possible that I'll find deckhand jobs on some of the whale watching boats to fill that time, which would effectively keep me at or in the sea nearly every day of the week. The possibility of being water-logged for the next five months is a distinct one!
I say "five months" because I have just purchased my flights to Germany for the wedding next summer! It's going to be an incredible trip, between experiencing the marriage of Matthias and Melli, and the promise of travelling with Aaron (a good from from Australia, the first time around) down through Austria to Slovenia and Croatia afterwards. Both Slovenia and Croatia are countries that I've been wanting to explore, but I am also using this trip as an opportunity to find out about the possibility of living and working in both. I'm still strongly considering becoming certified to teach english as a foreign language, and these two are countries that I'm interested in considering.
And so, as I remarked to Matthias on the phone today, it looks like my days of scheming, travelling, and adventuring are far from over. I actually look forward to the day I can settle somewhere with the intention of staying for more than 6 months, but I'm hoping there'll be time for that later. For now though, I can't imagine being any better suited for this aloof lifestyle I've crafted for myself. It's nice to have some good company along the way, though.
I say "five months" because I have just purchased my flights to Germany for the wedding next summer! It's going to be an incredible trip, between experiencing the marriage of Matthias and Melli, and the promise of travelling with Aaron (a good from from Australia, the first time around) down through Austria to Slovenia and Croatia afterwards. Both Slovenia and Croatia are countries that I've been wanting to explore, but I am also using this trip as an opportunity to find out about the possibility of living and working in both. I'm still strongly considering becoming certified to teach english as a foreign language, and these two are countries that I'm interested in considering.
And so, as I remarked to Matthias on the phone today, it looks like my days of scheming, travelling, and adventuring are far from over. I actually look forward to the day I can settle somewhere with the intention of staying for more than 6 months, but I'm hoping there'll be time for that later. For now though, I can't imagine being any better suited for this aloof lifestyle I've crafted for myself. It's nice to have some good company along the way, though.
Tuesday, December 04, 2007
1 minute, 44 seconds
When I walked out my front door this morning, bearing a hot cup of Chai tea, it took me less than two minutes to put my feet into the sands of Lover's Point! I watched the waves for a while and considered diving today, but decided against it by the time the cup ran dry. It's okay, because there's plenty else to keep me occupied.
Within a five minute walk from my apartment are the following amenities: local grocer, laundromat, library, beach volleyball court, Natural History Museum, local produce shop, Monarch Butterfly Grove, soccer field, and plenty of interesting little shops. Within a ten minute bike-ride is the magnificent Monterey Bay Aquarium and the Fisherman's Pier. Honestly, that's just the tip of the iceberg, but I think the point is made: This place is awesome! Gabe was right, I am a lucky guy.
I'm in the process of securing a few different jobs, between the diving and whale watching boats(as a deckhand and/or divemaster), and a number of other random places such as Pebble Beach Golf Course and a couple of upscale hotels. My current plan is thus: earn/save money for a trip to Germany next summer, in time for Matthias's wedding. I somehow doubt that I'll be lacking for entertainment in the meantime. I'm just wondering if indeed this is too good to be true...
Within a five minute walk from my apartment are the following amenities: local grocer, laundromat, library, beach volleyball court, Natural History Museum, local produce shop, Monarch Butterfly Grove, soccer field, and plenty of interesting little shops. Within a ten minute bike-ride is the magnificent Monterey Bay Aquarium and the Fisherman's Pier. Honestly, that's just the tip of the iceberg, but I think the point is made: This place is awesome! Gabe was right, I am a lucky guy.
I'm in the process of securing a few different jobs, between the diving and whale watching boats(as a deckhand and/or divemaster), and a number of other random places such as Pebble Beach Golf Course and a couple of upscale hotels. My current plan is thus: earn/save money for a trip to Germany next summer, in time for Matthias's wedding. I somehow doubt that I'll be lacking for entertainment in the meantime. I'm just wondering if indeed this is too good to be true...
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Cookie therapy
I hate stress. It hates me. Some people perform well when they feel like their feet are in the fire, almost as if the added pressure turns them from a lump of coal into some kind of shiny diamond or something. I don't get it really. Two things tend to happen to me when I'm feeling stressful: my fingernails get short and ragged, and I eat cookies. A lot of them.
Everyone has their own coping mechanism with elevated stress levels, be it exercise, crack cocaine, or meticulously dusting the tops of doorways. Me personally: I become a milk-and-cookie monster. Seriously, I've been known to polish off an entire bag of Oreo cookies in a single sitting. Today, it was Safeway brand sandwich cookies, but they're no safer than their black-and-white comrades. This is what stress makes me do.
I'm not the most organized person, so it's been difficult for me to simultaneously coordinate my efforts at finding a job, a reasonably-priced apartment in this highly sought-after place, and a cell phone (out of necessity, not desire). I'm also planning a trip to Germany and Easter Europe next May, and struggling with the best way to help a good friend who is going through tough times. I always say it's better to be busy than bored, but I guess it's worth acknowledging that there is a limit to what I can juggle, and I'm not far from it.
I've gone to every scuba dive shop in Monterey in search of employment, with some success. There are apparently a few boats that need the occasional divemaster to help out on their trips, which sounds like a good fit for me. The downside (of sorts) is that the boats only hire divemasters that are independent contractors. This means that, in order to be employed by them, I need to have my own liability insurance (on top of the diving injury insurance I choose to have), my own dive gear, and a license to practice business in Monterey.
Oh geez! That reminds me that I need to buy new fins and a mask! Cripes...
Everyone has their own coping mechanism with elevated stress levels, be it exercise, crack cocaine, or meticulously dusting the tops of doorways. Me personally: I become a milk-and-cookie monster. Seriously, I've been known to polish off an entire bag of Oreo cookies in a single sitting. Today, it was Safeway brand sandwich cookies, but they're no safer than their black-and-white comrades. This is what stress makes me do.
I'm not the most organized person, so it's been difficult for me to simultaneously coordinate my efforts at finding a job, a reasonably-priced apartment in this highly sought-after place, and a cell phone (out of necessity, not desire). I'm also planning a trip to Germany and Easter Europe next May, and struggling with the best way to help a good friend who is going through tough times. I always say it's better to be busy than bored, but I guess it's worth acknowledging that there is a limit to what I can juggle, and I'm not far from it.
I've gone to every scuba dive shop in Monterey in search of employment, with some success. There are apparently a few boats that need the occasional divemaster to help out on their trips, which sounds like a good fit for me. The downside (of sorts) is that the boats only hire divemasters that are independent contractors. This means that, in order to be employed by them, I need to have my own liability insurance (on top of the diving injury insurance I choose to have), my own dive gear, and a license to practice business in Monterey.
Oh geez! That reminds me that I need to buy new fins and a mask! Cripes...
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Soy turkey, midnight futbol
I'm back in Oakland, having chosen to come up and have Thanksgiving with my good friends John-Paul and Andrea Tyler. Since moving to California in 1989, it is the first time that my family hasn't had Thanksgiving with Rickey (a longtime friend of the family, who has a passion for goofiness and a penchant for making incredible stuffing). The Tylers have been inviting me for Thanksgiving for a few years, and so I thought that this would be the best year to take them up on their offer, seeing as how all tradition has been foresaken anyhow! Though the dinner was vegetarian (gasp!), it was quite wonderful and I call it a smart move on my part to come here.
Yesterday was the first time that I'd played soccer in goodness knows how long. Around 5 o'clock in the afternoon, John-Paul, his brother-in-law Christian (originally from Ecuador), and I met up with a couple of guys to go play on a turf field near UC Berkeley. One of the guys, Lass, is from Ivory Coast, while the other, Imad, hails from Morocco. What fun it was, playing around with people from such varied backgrounds. Although any one of them, including Mustafah (also from Morocco), whom we picked up later, can kick my ass up and down the field, it was still great fun hanging out with those guys.
But wait! There's more...
JP had heard about a group of people who play soccer at midnight every saturday at a nice lakeside park near his house. And so, as you know I would, I stayed awake with him and went down there to check it out. Now, I'd never tried playing soccer in the middle of the night with no lights, on lumpy ankle-breaking grass, and with a smattering of what might have been grenade craters throughout the field, but it was interesting! Only 9 people showed up total, but it was a good group of young people who aren't too serious and just want to have fun. I think they all know each other from Narcotics Anonymous, because they just had that kind of look about them, and they were discussing how they quit using. I think the soccer gig is a healthy nighttime diversion from the temptations of drugs and alcohol, and it was really fun hanging around with a group of people who seem happy just to be alive and well.
Tomorrow I return to Carmel. I'm going to head down to the Monterey harbor and see about getting a job on a diveboat there. I might even go kayaking with Jenn to the Point Lobos Reserve, which I've been looking forward to for awhile now. Yay!
Yesterday was the first time that I'd played soccer in goodness knows how long. Around 5 o'clock in the afternoon, John-Paul, his brother-in-law Christian (originally from Ecuador), and I met up with a couple of guys to go play on a turf field near UC Berkeley. One of the guys, Lass, is from Ivory Coast, while the other, Imad, hails from Morocco. What fun it was, playing around with people from such varied backgrounds. Although any one of them, including Mustafah (also from Morocco), whom we picked up later, can kick my ass up and down the field, it was still great fun hanging out with those guys.
But wait! There's more...
JP had heard about a group of people who play soccer at midnight every saturday at a nice lakeside park near his house. And so, as you know I would, I stayed awake with him and went down there to check it out. Now, I'd never tried playing soccer in the middle of the night with no lights, on lumpy ankle-breaking grass, and with a smattering of what might have been grenade craters throughout the field, but it was interesting! Only 9 people showed up total, but it was a good group of young people who aren't too serious and just want to have fun. I think they all know each other from Narcotics Anonymous, because they just had that kind of look about them, and they were discussing how they quit using. I think the soccer gig is a healthy nighttime diversion from the temptations of drugs and alcohol, and it was really fun hanging around with a group of people who seem happy just to be alive and well.
Tomorrow I return to Carmel. I'm going to head down to the Monterey harbor and see about getting a job on a diveboat there. I might even go kayaking with Jenn to the Point Lobos Reserve, which I've been looking forward to for awhile now. Yay!
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Change of pace
I spent a lot of time riding around on bicycles of widely varying make, model, and maintenance while on my Big Trip. In Asia, they were mostly one-speed bikes for girls, complete with bells, baskets on the front, and low-crossbars so as to avoid indecency whilst riding around in a skirt. I got a lot of funny looks from young people, who laughed as I rode by on my cute pink bikes, and it was great.
I was never one of those kids that spent hours every day zipping around the neighborhood on my big brother's bike. Heck, I didn't even learn how to ride a bike until I was 11 years old, and I'm still not convinced that I've gotten any better. Nevertheless, one of the things that has changed since returning to Santa Barbara is that I really enjoy biking around town. It's really not that big of a city, yet there are a lot of really interesting and beautiful things to see in it. Just this late afternoon, I went out for a sunset ride at my favorite time of the day, hoping to capture some photographs of the cities landmarks (the courthouse, the Old Mission, etc.) for no reason other than because it was pleasant.
Part of what I learned from my travels is that there are certain things that I want in my life, in order for me to find my greatest contentment. When I gaze into a glass ball, looking for glimpses of my future, here are some of the things I'd like to see:
-every day, weather permitting, I ride a bike from point A to B. Car? What car?
-I've got a labrador retriever. The dog's color (black, yellow, chocolate) isn't important, but my little fur-faced companion is of the short-limbed, block-headed variety. He comes to work with me every day, is a menace to cheese, and demands cuddles from everyone he knows.
-I live, or have lived, in a foreign, non-english speaking, country. Occasionally, old ladies from the neighborhood come by the see if my hair is red naturally, or the result of some chemical perversion.
-I've got another companion, but this one of the two-legged variety. I never call her "my girlfriend", but rather, "my partner" because she and I are a tag-team, a partnership. The words, "Coming home" means, "Coming home to her".
-etc.
So yeah, as time goes on and I experience more things, I come to better understand the lifestyle I want to lead. Maybe the pieces won't all come together at the same time, but for today I'm enjoying the fact that pleasant bike rides are a part of my daily routine.
I was never one of those kids that spent hours every day zipping around the neighborhood on my big brother's bike. Heck, I didn't even learn how to ride a bike until I was 11 years old, and I'm still not convinced that I've gotten any better. Nevertheless, one of the things that has changed since returning to Santa Barbara is that I really enjoy biking around town. It's really not that big of a city, yet there are a lot of really interesting and beautiful things to see in it. Just this late afternoon, I went out for a sunset ride at my favorite time of the day, hoping to capture some photographs of the cities landmarks (the courthouse, the Old Mission, etc.) for no reason other than because it was pleasant.
Part of what I learned from my travels is that there are certain things that I want in my life, in order for me to find my greatest contentment. When I gaze into a glass ball, looking for glimpses of my future, here are some of the things I'd like to see:
-every day, weather permitting, I ride a bike from point A to B. Car? What car?
-I've got a labrador retriever. The dog's color (black, yellow, chocolate) isn't important, but my little fur-faced companion is of the short-limbed, block-headed variety. He comes to work with me every day, is a menace to cheese, and demands cuddles from everyone he knows.
-I live, or have lived, in a foreign, non-english speaking, country. Occasionally, old ladies from the neighborhood come by the see if my hair is red naturally, or the result of some chemical perversion.
-I've got another companion, but this one of the two-legged variety. I never call her "my girlfriend", but rather, "my partner" because she and I are a tag-team, a partnership. The words, "Coming home" means, "Coming home to her".
-etc.
So yeah, as time goes on and I experience more things, I come to better understand the lifestyle I want to lead. Maybe the pieces won't all come together at the same time, but for today I'm enjoying the fact that pleasant bike rides are a part of my daily routine.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Getting restless
I'm getting the itch. It's the itch to get off my ass and do something interesting. I've been half-heartedly hoping to land a job here in Santa Barbara, but it doesn't look like that'll happen. I've been staying on a friend's boat in the harbor, in exchange for some very menial labor, which would make living in SB very affordable. "Unfortunately" though, it looks like I'll be going to Plan B: living and working in Carmel.
Back before I left to travel, when I was working on the dive boat Conception (here in SB), I met a really nice guy from Carmel. Mike is a high school teacher there, as well as the instructor for the school's scuba diving program. When he came on the boat with his daughter (then, one of his students) as well as a few other kids from his Scientific Diving class, I got to chatting with him and it came up that I often find myself in Monterey/Carmel to go diving myself. He offered to have me stay with him and his wife anytime I'm there. Well, since then I've made several trips up there under the pretense of going diving. To be honest, I enjoy spending time with Mike, his wife Patti, and his daughter Nancy so much that I take any chance I get to spend a few days with them.
Anyways, they have once again opened their home to me temporarily, should I choose to relocate to Carmel. It seems like a fantastic opportunity, and so I'm hoping to go up there around Thanksgiving, land a job, and get set up in the Monterey area for awhile. With any luck at all, I'll find a full-time job and save up enough money to go to Germany next May for Matthias and Melli's wedding, and go travelling a bit afterwards.
If history is any guide though, whatever plans I make now will bear very little resemblance to the reality of what actually happens. It's okay though, because I like the unpredictability of it all.
Maybe I should just buy a lottery ticket...
Back before I left to travel, when I was working on the dive boat Conception (here in SB), I met a really nice guy from Carmel. Mike is a high school teacher there, as well as the instructor for the school's scuba diving program. When he came on the boat with his daughter (then, one of his students) as well as a few other kids from his Scientific Diving class, I got to chatting with him and it came up that I often find myself in Monterey/Carmel to go diving myself. He offered to have me stay with him and his wife anytime I'm there. Well, since then I've made several trips up there under the pretense of going diving. To be honest, I enjoy spending time with Mike, his wife Patti, and his daughter Nancy so much that I take any chance I get to spend a few days with them.
Anyways, they have once again opened their home to me temporarily, should I choose to relocate to Carmel. It seems like a fantastic opportunity, and so I'm hoping to go up there around Thanksgiving, land a job, and get set up in the Monterey area for awhile. With any luck at all, I'll find a full-time job and save up enough money to go to Germany next May for Matthias and Melli's wedding, and go travelling a bit afterwards.
If history is any guide though, whatever plans I make now will bear very little resemblance to the reality of what actually happens. It's okay though, because I like the unpredictability of it all.
Maybe I should just buy a lottery ticket...
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
The next chapter
It's been more than two months since the conclusion of my trip around the world. I'd planned on the last blog entry being the last, but I've actually missed writing down my thoughts as I go about the business of finding my place in the world. I find that chronicling my plans, hopes, successes, and failures allows me to focus in on the things that are most important to me at the moment. I also enjoy reading back over previous entries in order to see the paths I've taken to get where I am today. To that end...
A couple of weeks after returning home, I began a west coast road trip. On the northward leg, I stopped in Carmel, Oakland, Arcata, Portland, and Seattle. From there, I flew up to Anchorage in order to meet up with my brother Gabe and head up to Denali National Park together. My good friend Jenn, from Humboldt State University, and her husband K.C. were working up there for the summer season. It was one of those situations where several things came together at once: I was able to go adventuring with Gabe (I'd invited him on my big trip, but he was unable to join me), I hadn't seen Jenn in nearly two years and missed her, and I'd always wanted to experience some of Alaska's natural beauty. It was a great trip, and all my goals were met and surpassed! Running around the Denali tundra like nutcases, leaping into the frigid waters of Wonder Lake, and stuffing our faces with more wild blueberries than a person has any right to...it was great! And seeing Jenn turned out to be even more fun than I'd expected, because she and Gabe got along so well. Most people that know him think I'm lying when I say that he's the funniest person I know, but it's true. He's very selective in who he allows his proverbial hair down with, but for whatever reason he and Jenn were just as goofy and fun as I'd come to love and. It was really wonderful knowing that they each got to see the best of each other, especially when I'd talked them both up so much beforehand.
After nearly a week in Alaska, Gabe flew back to Sacramento and I returned to Seattle to start the return leg of my journey, southward. In both Seattle and Portland, my objectives in visiting were: a) become somewhat acquainted with the highly reputed cities, and b) scout out the area for consideration as potential places to live. My basic conclusions are thus: I enjoyed both cities (Portland more so than Seattle), but I don't know that either is right for me at the moment. Nevertheless, I met some wonderful people, got the explore the cities a bit, and got a sense for what it might be like to live and work in either city.
The stops in Arcata, Oakland, Carmel, and Davis were all of a more social nature. I have good friends (or brother, in the case of Davis) living in each and I took the excuse to stop by and spend some time with each of them. Over the last few years, I've been fortunate to forge treasured relationships with some amazing people. Thus it was really fun seeing the "scuba people" at HSU, the Guardino family in Carmel, my brother and his girlfriend in Davis, and of course the delightful duo of John-Paul and Andrea Tyler in Oakland. I'm a lucky guy.
I'm still here in Santa Barbara, sort of in limbo. I've recently decided that, at some point, I want to become certified (through TEFL, most likely) to each english as a foreign language. This would hopefully enable me to combine work and play by teaching english in countries that I am keen to experience: Peru, Japan, Slovenia, South Africa, etc. This "career" path could open a whole lot of interesting doors for me. However, I've decided to wait to take the course until after Matthias and Melli's wedding next May (YAY!). That way, I'll have no obligations to limit my time there. Aaron Beaton (another great friend, from Australia) has informed me that he'll be attending the wedding as well and so now we're planning some trips to Eastern Europe (okay, well that's my hope anyways) afterwards. I'm so excited about the whole glorious situation!
So basically I think I'll just try to find some odds and ends work either here in SB or, preferably, up in Monterey. That way I can save money for the trip to Germany, and whatever comes after. It's a very exciting time for me right now, and I'm incredibly grateful to be in the fortunate position I'm in!
A couple of weeks after returning home, I began a west coast road trip. On the northward leg, I stopped in Carmel, Oakland, Arcata, Portland, and Seattle. From there, I flew up to Anchorage in order to meet up with my brother Gabe and head up to Denali National Park together. My good friend Jenn, from Humboldt State University, and her husband K.C. were working up there for the summer season. It was one of those situations where several things came together at once: I was able to go adventuring with Gabe (I'd invited him on my big trip, but he was unable to join me), I hadn't seen Jenn in nearly two years and missed her, and I'd always wanted to experience some of Alaska's natural beauty. It was a great trip, and all my goals were met and surpassed! Running around the Denali tundra like nutcases, leaping into the frigid waters of Wonder Lake, and stuffing our faces with more wild blueberries than a person has any right to...it was great! And seeing Jenn turned out to be even more fun than I'd expected, because she and Gabe got along so well. Most people that know him think I'm lying when I say that he's the funniest person I know, but it's true. He's very selective in who he allows his proverbial hair down with, but for whatever reason he and Jenn were just as goofy and fun as I'd come to love and. It was really wonderful knowing that they each got to see the best of each other, especially when I'd talked them both up so much beforehand.
After nearly a week in Alaska, Gabe flew back to Sacramento and I returned to Seattle to start the return leg of my journey, southward. In both Seattle and Portland, my objectives in visiting were: a) become somewhat acquainted with the highly reputed cities, and b) scout out the area for consideration as potential places to live. My basic conclusions are thus: I enjoyed both cities (Portland more so than Seattle), but I don't know that either is right for me at the moment. Nevertheless, I met some wonderful people, got the explore the cities a bit, and got a sense for what it might be like to live and work in either city.
The stops in Arcata, Oakland, Carmel, and Davis were all of a more social nature. I have good friends (or brother, in the case of Davis) living in each and I took the excuse to stop by and spend some time with each of them. Over the last few years, I've been fortunate to forge treasured relationships with some amazing people. Thus it was really fun seeing the "scuba people" at HSU, the Guardino family in Carmel, my brother and his girlfriend in Davis, and of course the delightful duo of John-Paul and Andrea Tyler in Oakland. I'm a lucky guy.
I'm still here in Santa Barbara, sort of in limbo. I've recently decided that, at some point, I want to become certified (through TEFL, most likely) to each english as a foreign language. This would hopefully enable me to combine work and play by teaching english in countries that I am keen to experience: Peru, Japan, Slovenia, South Africa, etc. This "career" path could open a whole lot of interesting doors for me. However, I've decided to wait to take the course until after Matthias and Melli's wedding next May (YAY!). That way, I'll have no obligations to limit my time there. Aaron Beaton (another great friend, from Australia) has informed me that he'll be attending the wedding as well and so now we're planning some trips to Eastern Europe (okay, well that's my hope anyways) afterwards. I'm so excited about the whole glorious situation!
So basically I think I'll just try to find some odds and ends work either here in SB or, preferably, up in Monterey. That way I can save money for the trip to Germany, and whatever comes after. It's a very exciting time for me right now, and I'm incredibly grateful to be in the fortunate position I'm in!
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Final Stats
I thought it would be fun to collect some data on my travels and post them here after all is said and done. I'll put more up as it gets sorted, but to start with...
Length of trip: 322 days
Countries visited: Australia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, India, Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, Austria, Canada
Local homes stayed in: 14
Favorite meals: meat pie (Australia), chicken fried rice (Thailand and Laos), krustenbraten (Germany), drie im veckla (Nurnberg specialty), pyzy (Poland), poutine (Quebec)
Strangest meals: rat meat soup, pig intestine soup
Spiciest meal: papaya salad that the mahouts were eating...that stuff is lethal!
Number of sicknesses: 3 (including the one where I broke my 15 year no-puke streak, damnit!)
Longest stint without a hot shower: two and a half months
Clothes discarded: 4 shirts, 2 beanies, 3 pairs of shorts, 1 sweatshirt, and two pairs of shoes
Planes: 14 (27 hours, 20 minutes)
Trains: 77 (50 hours, 2 minutes)
Busses: 74 (92 hours, 44 minutes)
Number of hostels/guesthouses: 43
Length of trip: 322 days
Countries visited: Australia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, India, Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, Austria, Canada
Local homes stayed in: 14
Favorite meals: meat pie (Australia), chicken fried rice (Thailand and Laos), krustenbraten (Germany), drie im veckla (Nurnberg specialty), pyzy (Poland), poutine (Quebec)
Strangest meals: rat meat soup, pig intestine soup
Spiciest meal: papaya salad that the mahouts were eating...that stuff is lethal!
Number of sicknesses: 3 (including the one where I broke my 15 year no-puke streak, damnit!)
Longest stint without a hot shower: two and a half months
Clothes discarded: 4 shirts, 2 beanies, 3 pairs of shorts, 1 sweatshirt, and two pairs of shoes
Planes: 14 (27 hours, 20 minutes)
Trains: 77 (50 hours, 2 minutes)
Busses: 74 (92 hours, 44 minutes)
Number of hostels/guesthouses: 43
The End of the Beginning
Well, I made it! After 322 days, 10 countries, and more experiences that I know how to categorize, I have returned to Santa Barbara where it all began last September. Last night I visited with Rickey, a family friend of long-standing notoriety, and she had this to say about returning from foreign travel: "You won't know for a long time just what you learned. It'll come back to you at random times, when you see something or smell something or hear something that makes you think, 'That reminds me of...'". She's a woman of great wisdom and insight, so I'm more than happy to hear from her that there's no rush for me to digest this trip. That being said, it feels appropriate to talk about what it's like being back where I started, and addressing the "What now?" question.
Santa Barbara is amazing. It wouldn't surprise me if a whole lot of people saw fit to call this place heaven on Earth. Sandwiched between speckled gold chapparal mountains and the surging blue Santa Barbara Channel, the city couldn't be situated any better. The vibrant downtown area is made up of brilliant white plastered buildings with red-tiled roofs, a tribute to its rich Spanish history. And then there's the weather! The most common complaint I've heard over the years is that it's too often too sunny. Seriously, by the end of summer people are clamoring over how many days in a row have been nearly identical: cool fog in the morning, bright and sunny all day (with temperatures ranging from, say, 25-35 degrees Celsius), then cool and clear at night. Repeat week after week. So yeah, Santa Barbara is wonderful, and a whole lot of people go out of their way to make a point of coming here. It therefore comes as something of a surprise to me that I want to leave.
I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have grown up here, but it's just not the place for me anymore. Coming back is sort of like digging out an old pair of shoes from the back of the closet and pulling them on again. They're well broken in, but there was a reason they got put in the back: the fits not right. In the same sense, I've covered a lot of ground and time in Santa Barbara, but there was a reason I left. The first time was to university in northern California, the second time was to Australia in 2003 as an exchange student, and the third time...well that's what's been chronicled in this website over the last 11 months.
I had an epiphany of sorts while stacking firewood at my father's house just last week. Each piece of split wood can go in any of a number of different places, and fit well enough. However, it always seems to me that, if you take the time to look, there's always a spot where the piece fits almost perfectly. It's almost like it was made for that one particular spot, even though there are countless other places that work well enough. Maybe it's the same for people. Maybe all the places I've lived - Santa Barbara, Arcata, Eureka, Frelighsburg, Geelong, Cairns - are all places where I fit well enough, but not perfectly. I mean, I've had it pretty good everywhere I've been. I've never gone to bed hungry, never felt afraid to go out my door, and never had to worry about being safe inside of it. Nevertheless, I've always felt like there was somewhere better for me. The closest I think I ever came to really feeling at home was in Australia. But who knows? Maybe there's an even better place for me. Wherever it is, and whatever it takes to get there, I intend to keep looking. The vast majority of people in the world aren't afforded the luxury of choice in either lifestyle or location. While I once considered it to be an act of greed and selfishness to want more when so many have less than I do, I now feel like it would be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunities available to me. This journal doesn't mark the end of the journey, but rather the end of the beginning. The path from here is not clearly marked and I don't expect expect it to be straight, but I am confident that in the end I'll find the perfect place to fit in.
Santa Barbara is amazing. It wouldn't surprise me if a whole lot of people saw fit to call this place heaven on Earth. Sandwiched between speckled gold chapparal mountains and the surging blue Santa Barbara Channel, the city couldn't be situated any better. The vibrant downtown area is made up of brilliant white plastered buildings with red-tiled roofs, a tribute to its rich Spanish history. And then there's the weather! The most common complaint I've heard over the years is that it's too often too sunny. Seriously, by the end of summer people are clamoring over how many days in a row have been nearly identical: cool fog in the morning, bright and sunny all day (with temperatures ranging from, say, 25-35 degrees Celsius), then cool and clear at night. Repeat week after week. So yeah, Santa Barbara is wonderful, and a whole lot of people go out of their way to make a point of coming here. It therefore comes as something of a surprise to me that I want to leave.
I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have grown up here, but it's just not the place for me anymore. Coming back is sort of like digging out an old pair of shoes from the back of the closet and pulling them on again. They're well broken in, but there was a reason they got put in the back: the fits not right. In the same sense, I've covered a lot of ground and time in Santa Barbara, but there was a reason I left. The first time was to university in northern California, the second time was to Australia in 2003 as an exchange student, and the third time...well that's what's been chronicled in this website over the last 11 months.
I had an epiphany of sorts while stacking firewood at my father's house just last week. Each piece of split wood can go in any of a number of different places, and fit well enough. However, it always seems to me that, if you take the time to look, there's always a spot where the piece fits almost perfectly. It's almost like it was made for that one particular spot, even though there are countless other places that work well enough. Maybe it's the same for people. Maybe all the places I've lived - Santa Barbara, Arcata, Eureka, Frelighsburg, Geelong, Cairns - are all places where I fit well enough, but not perfectly. I mean, I've had it pretty good everywhere I've been. I've never gone to bed hungry, never felt afraid to go out my door, and never had to worry about being safe inside of it. Nevertheless, I've always felt like there was somewhere better for me. The closest I think I ever came to really feeling at home was in Australia. But who knows? Maybe there's an even better place for me. Wherever it is, and whatever it takes to get there, I intend to keep looking. The vast majority of people in the world aren't afforded the luxury of choice in either lifestyle or location. While I once considered it to be an act of greed and selfishness to want more when so many have less than I do, I now feel like it would be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunities available to me. This journal doesn't mark the end of the journey, but rather the end of the beginning. The path from here is not clearly marked and I don't expect expect it to be straight, but I am confident that in the end I'll find the perfect place to fit in.
Saturday, August 04, 2007
Home, and Yet Not
It is hard to explain what it's like for me to be back here at Dad's house for this long. Every year between the ages of 6 and 18 saw me spending an average of two months here, but the memories of important events that took place here are disproportionate to the amount of time I was actually out here at this secluded old cabin in the woods. It was here that I was shown how to stack lumber, blow my nose, and make a perfect grilled cheese sandwich (shingle it with pickles!). I discovered the wonderfully twisted writings of Dean Koontz, and learned the difference between work and workmanship. More than one tooth fell out here, and one (which I had planned to keep) was knocked clean out of my head in a moment of rough-and-tumble with my brothers. Together, with my dad (and often one or both older brothers)we worked on countless projects which, even today, are a source of pride for me. There was the time we reshingled the roof in what felt like the hottest days of my young life. We built (and rebuilt) at least three docks to the pond, including one on which I learned that, no, it's not okay to pound in a crooked nail! We extended the living room, installed skylights, and dug drainage ditches. Then there was the summer we rescued an abandoned baby raccon. He was the first animal I remember loving, and the day we set him free was also the first time I felt my little heart break.
I've grown up a lot out here in the woods. I have also grown up a lot on this trip around the world. It seems most fitting that, as I approach the end of this adventure, I wind up back where I once was. I'm enjoying the opportunity to make wonderful new memories (including those with 10-year old Ulysse), but sometimes it's worth it to turn around and look at where I've been. I'm so grateful for so many great experiences I've had in my life, but now, just while I'm here, I'm enjoying the chance to sit back and relive a few of them.
I've grown up a lot out here in the woods. I have also grown up a lot on this trip around the world. It seems most fitting that, as I approach the end of this adventure, I wind up back where I once was. I'm enjoying the opportunity to make wonderful new memories (including those with 10-year old Ulysse), but sometimes it's worth it to turn around and look at where I've been. I'm so grateful for so many great experiences I've had in my life, but now, just while I'm here, I'm enjoying the chance to sit back and relive a few of them.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Nine Year Hiatus
I was a senior in high school the last time I visited my father here in Frelighsburg, Quebec. To give some perspective on that span of time, since I was last here I:
-spent five and a half years at four different universities in three cities and two continents in order to get a degree that should only take four years in the first place
-worked as a zookeeper, deckhand, divemaster, construction worker, and veterinary technician
-helped rebuild two scuba dive boats
-dated a girl who, in a past life, performed in a Peruvian circus as a trapese artist
-eaten an ostrich egg omelet
-considered careers ranging from carpentry to teaching english to building roads
-learned to say "hello" and "thank you" in Thai, Laotian, Hindi, German, and Polish
Though much has changed since last I was here (the house, the dogs, me), it has been so nice to feel like I am home. The months of constantly having to plan and adapt an itinerary for everyday was interesting and life-changing for sure, but now it is such a relief to be on familiar territory among family. Speaking of which, I am really enjoying the opportunity to forge a relationship with Ulysse, my 10 year old half brother (Andree's son). For such a young guy, he sure does keep me on my toes. He is constantly coming up with new ideas for things to work on and, though his english is incomplete (yet far better than my french), we get along quite well. Who knows? Maybe someday he will come to visit in California (or wherever I may wind up!).
-spent five and a half years at four different universities in three cities and two continents in order to get a degree that should only take four years in the first place
-worked as a zookeeper, deckhand, divemaster, construction worker, and veterinary technician
-helped rebuild two scuba dive boats
-dated a girl who, in a past life, performed in a Peruvian circus as a trapese artist
-eaten an ostrich egg omelet
-considered careers ranging from carpentry to teaching english to building roads
-learned to say "hello" and "thank you" in Thai, Laotian, Hindi, German, and Polish
Though much has changed since last I was here (the house, the dogs, me), it has been so nice to feel like I am home. The months of constantly having to plan and adapt an itinerary for everyday was interesting and life-changing for sure, but now it is such a relief to be on familiar territory among family. Speaking of which, I am really enjoying the opportunity to forge a relationship with Ulysse, my 10 year old half brother (Andree's son). For such a young guy, he sure does keep me on my toes. He is constantly coming up with new ideas for things to work on and, though his english is incomplete (yet far better than my french), we get along quite well. Who knows? Maybe someday he will come to visit in California (or wherever I may wind up!).
Saturday, June 30, 2007
Dodging the Dodgies in Prague
(Written June 20)
Mum and I arrived in Prague four days ago, after a pleasant 5 hour train ride from Nurnberg. Upon arrival, our first impression of the heavily-touristed city was the rather sleazy area immediately adjacent to the main train station. The area looks like the sort of place that you definitely do not want to hang around in after dark. The park itself is nice enough, but dodgy characters are present aplenty. Nevertheless, I opted to walk to our hotel because I knew that it was not very far, and it would be nice to stretch the old legs a bit. Half an hour later we arrived safe and sound to our nice hotel.
The old part of the city (though much larger than, say, the old part of Nurnberg) is still rather manageable. All of the main sites that tourists are drawn to are located within a 15 minute walk from one another. The main square, Charles Bridge, St. Nicolas Church and, of course, the castle (with its incredible cathedral) are all more or less in a straight line and so can easily be accessed on foot.
As for the city itself, Mum and I agree that the best thing about it is that nearly every building looks like a museum of one sort or another. Some are adorned by statues, others feature brilliant murals, but most are just a simple splash of one bright color or other; quite lovely to look at. The downside is that the secret of the city's beauty is definitely out. There are hordes of tourists EVERYWHERE. And where there are tourists, there are tourist shops, overpriced restaurants, and dodgy characters looking to feed on less-than-vigilant visitors. It has actually become a source of amusement for Mum and I, watching those scoundrels. Here's how the game works: First, we pick a spot to eat where that has a clear view of the main square. Then, we see how long it takes to identify someone who is clearly up to no good. More often than not, we spot at least one or two of the devils even before our food arrives from the kitchen. I mean, these guys look like they took a page out of the "How to Be a Criminal" handbook: grungy-looking from head to toe, hunched over with ratty hat pulled down low, shuffling walk, and eyes constantly scanning the purses, pockets, and wallets of everyone they pass. Furthermore, they pace back and forth in the main square with obviously no destination in mind, and occasionally gesture discreetly at other guys across the square who look like they were cast from the same mold as Criminal Number 1. It is actually quite funny to watch. I mean, come on, anyone who falls prey to these buffoons must be one socket short of a set!
Anyhow, it has been fun travelling with Mum. We have managed to see everything that we wanted to see, and do so with a minimal amount of hassle. As always, we have also engaged in a hilarious laughing fit or two over some stupidity or other. On a noteable aside, we managed to drag our butts up 278 steps to the top of the castle's cathedral tower. Back before Mum quit smoking, I wouldn't have even considered trying to get her up there but she did it, and it was a small source of pride for us both to be up there together.
Tomorrow we head back to Nurnberg, where we will hang out with Melli and Matthias (who will be coming back from a work trip to Singapore) for a day. Then, on the 23rd we take the train back up to Frankfurt in time for our flights back overseas: hers to LA, and mine to NY.
Mum and I arrived in Prague four days ago, after a pleasant 5 hour train ride from Nurnberg. Upon arrival, our first impression of the heavily-touristed city was the rather sleazy area immediately adjacent to the main train station. The area looks like the sort of place that you definitely do not want to hang around in after dark. The park itself is nice enough, but dodgy characters are present aplenty. Nevertheless, I opted to walk to our hotel because I knew that it was not very far, and it would be nice to stretch the old legs a bit. Half an hour later we arrived safe and sound to our nice hotel.
The old part of the city (though much larger than, say, the old part of Nurnberg) is still rather manageable. All of the main sites that tourists are drawn to are located within a 15 minute walk from one another. The main square, Charles Bridge, St. Nicolas Church and, of course, the castle (with its incredible cathedral) are all more or less in a straight line and so can easily be accessed on foot.
As for the city itself, Mum and I agree that the best thing about it is that nearly every building looks like a museum of one sort or another. Some are adorned by statues, others feature brilliant murals, but most are just a simple splash of one bright color or other; quite lovely to look at. The downside is that the secret of the city's beauty is definitely out. There are hordes of tourists EVERYWHERE. And where there are tourists, there are tourist shops, overpriced restaurants, and dodgy characters looking to feed on less-than-vigilant visitors. It has actually become a source of amusement for Mum and I, watching those scoundrels. Here's how the game works: First, we pick a spot to eat where that has a clear view of the main square. Then, we see how long it takes to identify someone who is clearly up to no good. More often than not, we spot at least one or two of the devils even before our food arrives from the kitchen. I mean, these guys look like they took a page out of the "How to Be a Criminal" handbook: grungy-looking from head to toe, hunched over with ratty hat pulled down low, shuffling walk, and eyes constantly scanning the purses, pockets, and wallets of everyone they pass. Furthermore, they pace back and forth in the main square with obviously no destination in mind, and occasionally gesture discreetly at other guys across the square who look like they were cast from the same mold as Criminal Number 1. It is actually quite funny to watch. I mean, come on, anyone who falls prey to these buffoons must be one socket short of a set!
Anyhow, it has been fun travelling with Mum. We have managed to see everything that we wanted to see, and do so with a minimal amount of hassle. As always, we have also engaged in a hilarious laughing fit or two over some stupidity or other. On a noteable aside, we managed to drag our butts up 278 steps to the top of the castle's cathedral tower. Back before Mum quit smoking, I wouldn't have even considered trying to get her up there but she did it, and it was a small source of pride for us both to be up there together.
Tomorrow we head back to Nurnberg, where we will hang out with Melli and Matthias (who will be coming back from a work trip to Singapore) for a day. Then, on the 23rd we take the train back up to Frankfurt in time for our flights back overseas: hers to LA, and mine to NY.
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Inbound Mothership
The Parental Unit is en route to Germany! I am a bit surprised that I was able to convince Mum to come to Germany, but I am glad she gave in (with hardly a fight) because I know she's going to love Nürnberg. How could she not? There's no way around it, this city rocks! I will train it to Frankfurt this afternoon, pick her up hopefully around 5pm, then take the three hour train back down to Nürnberg. Here we will hang out for a few days, explore the city, and give her a chance to recover from the jet lag. Woo hoo!
On an irrelevant tangent, I have just uploaded a BUNCH of pictures onto my flickr site, including those from India (which were deleted when I upgraded my account...grrr!!), Germany, and Poland. I wonder how many people check them out. Ah well, it's fun for me.
Oh, and I just realized why there have been only a few comments to this blog since I created it. Apparently, the default setting is to only allow register blogger members to post comments. How lame is that? Well, that should be amended now so please, let me know if you read this rubbish!
On an irrelevant tangent, I have just uploaded a BUNCH of pictures onto my flickr site, including those from India (which were deleted when I upgraded my account...grrr!!), Germany, and Poland. I wonder how many people check them out. Ah well, it's fun for me.
Oh, and I just realized why there have been only a few comments to this blog since I created it. Apparently, the default setting is to only allow register blogger members to post comments. How lame is that? Well, that should be amended now so please, let me know if you read this rubbish!
Monday, June 11, 2007
The Alps
It took 13 hours to get from Krakow to Nurnberg, but I decided to head straight back here to allow myself some time to prepare for the much-awaited hiking trip in the Alps. It was, as always, lovely to see Matthias and Melli again. I also had time to buy a few things that turned out to be very useful on the trip, including new hiking boots (my first pair!) and a new rainjacket. The weather forecasts showed plenty of rain at the time we were due to be in the mountains, so it was necessary to be prepared for that. Then it was time to head south...
M & M and I first drove for three hours down to Schwangau, which is the village made famous by Schloss Neuschwanstein. The white castle is rumoured to be the inspiration for the well known "castle" that greets visitors upon entrance to Disneyland, and it would not surprise me if it turned out to be more fact than fiction. The resemblance is hard to miss, if you've ever been to the "Happiest Place on Earth". The castle itself was interesting, but lacks the charm and timelessness of the medieval castles found elsewhere. Construction of the castle began in 1861, under the watchful eye of King Ludwig II. Though it's purpose was entirely romantic (the castle location couldn't be much nicer for a king's vacation home), the building costs very nearly bankrupted the Bavarian state. In 1886, King Ludwig II died in a mysterious accident in the nearby lake (some say he was murdered in order to save the region). It took workers 3 years to wrap up whatever unfinished tasks remained, but any plans to complete the king's grand design were unfulfilled. Today, the castle has a decidedly unfinished (and rather unbalanced, if you ask me) look to it. Though it is still nestled in the midst of beautiful mountains, I couldn't help but feel like there was something missing regardless of which side I viewed it from. On a side note, Schloss Neuschwanstein is one of the 21 candidates being considered in the "New 7 Wonders of the World". It's cool, but it is just not in the same category as Ankor Wat, the Great Pyramids, or Machu Pichu.
The next day was the start of the four-day backpacking trip in the Alps. We averaged about 3 hours of hiking per day, and spent each night in a different mountain lodge. Though some parts of the hiking got our heart pumping pretty good, the itinerary (well-planned as it was by Matthias's friend Christian) was very manageable. Melli (who had never really been hiking before), admitted beforehand that she was nervous about whether or not she could complete the route. It turned out that she not only kept pace with all 13 of us, but she even led the way a few times. Best of all, she was smiling and laughing from start to finish. I was proud of her for doing something so out of character, especially because it required climbing up, over, and around a few good sized mountains!
Now I am once again back in Nürnberg, hanging out until Mum arrives in Frankfurt in two days. I'm excited to see her. Though we sometimes have different interests when it comes to travel, I am quite optimistic that we will have a great time in Prague (the focus of our trip together).
On a somewhat disappointing note, the one thing that I didn't anticipate saying on this trip is now true: I want to go home. After the trip with mum to Czech Republic, I will go to my father's place for a bit, then drag my tired ass the rest of the way back to Santa Barbara.
M & M and I first drove for three hours down to Schwangau, which is the village made famous by Schloss Neuschwanstein. The white castle is rumoured to be the inspiration for the well known "castle" that greets visitors upon entrance to Disneyland, and it would not surprise me if it turned out to be more fact than fiction. The resemblance is hard to miss, if you've ever been to the "Happiest Place on Earth". The castle itself was interesting, but lacks the charm and timelessness of the medieval castles found elsewhere. Construction of the castle began in 1861, under the watchful eye of King Ludwig II. Though it's purpose was entirely romantic (the castle location couldn't be much nicer for a king's vacation home), the building costs very nearly bankrupted the Bavarian state. In 1886, King Ludwig II died in a mysterious accident in the nearby lake (some say he was murdered in order to save the region). It took workers 3 years to wrap up whatever unfinished tasks remained, but any plans to complete the king's grand design were unfulfilled. Today, the castle has a decidedly unfinished (and rather unbalanced, if you ask me) look to it. Though it is still nestled in the midst of beautiful mountains, I couldn't help but feel like there was something missing regardless of which side I viewed it from. On a side note, Schloss Neuschwanstein is one of the 21 candidates being considered in the "New 7 Wonders of the World". It's cool, but it is just not in the same category as Ankor Wat, the Great Pyramids, or Machu Pichu.
The next day was the start of the four-day backpacking trip in the Alps. We averaged about 3 hours of hiking per day, and spent each night in a different mountain lodge. Though some parts of the hiking got our heart pumping pretty good, the itinerary (well-planned as it was by Matthias's friend Christian) was very manageable. Melli (who had never really been hiking before), admitted beforehand that she was nervous about whether or not she could complete the route. It turned out that she not only kept pace with all 13 of us, but she even led the way a few times. Best of all, she was smiling and laughing from start to finish. I was proud of her for doing something so out of character, especially because it required climbing up, over, and around a few good sized mountains!
Now I am once again back in Nürnberg, hanging out until Mum arrives in Frankfurt in two days. I'm excited to see her. Though we sometimes have different interests when it comes to travel, I am quite optimistic that we will have a great time in Prague (the focus of our trip together).
On a somewhat disappointing note, the one thing that I didn't anticipate saying on this trip is now true: I want to go home. After the trip with mum to Czech Republic, I will go to my father's place for a bit, then drag my tired ass the rest of the way back to Santa Barbara.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Slowing down
I have to finally admit that I am tired. I thought for awhile that maybe my diet was lacking some vitamins, but the explanation for my current state of fatigue can only be attributed to being road-weary. I had planned to travel more of eastern Europe than just Poland, then follow that with a 6 month working stint in the UK. Not going to happen! I suspect that, after hiking the Swiss Alps with Matthias and Melli, followed by two weeks of travelling with mum, I will shortly thereafter be on a plane back to north America.
I like towers. I always have. So when my father recently told me that he is seriously considering building the tower of my dreams (as a boy, I told him of my fantasy), that was plenty of motivation for me to go there following departure from Europe. It turns out that we probably will not be able to build it this summer, but maybe we can flesh out some of the details and shoot for next summer. Regardless, it has been WAY too long since I have been there (8 years!!) and I can't wait to see them (even if the tower has to wait).
Right, I'm in Krakow now. Lovely city. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have the patience to walk around sightseeing anymore. I think tomorrow I will borrow my host's (Barbara) bicycle and ride out to the nearby countryside.
I like towers. I always have. So when my father recently told me that he is seriously considering building the tower of my dreams (as a boy, I told him of my fantasy), that was plenty of motivation for me to go there following departure from Europe. It turns out that we probably will not be able to build it this summer, but maybe we can flesh out some of the details and shoot for next summer. Regardless, it has been WAY too long since I have been there (8 years!!) and I can't wait to see them (even if the tower has to wait).
Right, I'm in Krakow now. Lovely city. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have the patience to walk around sightseeing anymore. I think tomorrow I will borrow my host's (Barbara) bicycle and ride out to the nearby countryside.
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Getting Hitched
(Written 5/20)
One minute you are climbing over the ruins of a 500 year old castle of the Teutonic Knights, the next you're pants-shopping for a Polish wedding! I don't know if this kind of thing is a regular occurrance for most people, but it was a first for me.
I came to Torun on Tuesday, from Poznan, and got in touch with Monika. She provided a comfortable place to stay her nice (and conveniently located) flat. She must have enjoyed my company as I enjoyed hers, because suddenly I found myself invited to the wedding of her cousin. I had only planned to stay in the city until Friday. It is now Sunday, and I was up until 3am last night celebrating the marital union of two people whom I don't know, but who seem lovely nonetheless. I am told that the wedding was a traditional Polish one, but in all honesty it wasn't much different from the "traditional" American ones that I have been to. The most surprising thing about the whole affair was the food. It just kept coming and coming! We arrived at the hotel for the after party around 6pm, and fresh food was served every 15 minutes to half hour from then until 5am the next morning. Surely the solution to solving the problem of world hunger is to have a Polish wedding. Insane! I love it!
As for Torun, the city is celebrated as the birthplace of the great astronomor Nikolai Copernicus who is credited with observing that the Earth revolves around the Sun and not the other way around. Of course, this blasphemy led to him being excommunicated from the Catholic Church. Silly man, using science to describe the world...
One minute you are climbing over the ruins of a 500 year old castle of the Teutonic Knights, the next you're pants-shopping for a Polish wedding! I don't know if this kind of thing is a regular occurrance for most people, but it was a first for me.
I came to Torun on Tuesday, from Poznan, and got in touch with Monika. She provided a comfortable place to stay her nice (and conveniently located) flat. She must have enjoyed my company as I enjoyed hers, because suddenly I found myself invited to the wedding of her cousin. I had only planned to stay in the city until Friday. It is now Sunday, and I was up until 3am last night celebrating the marital union of two people whom I don't know, but who seem lovely nonetheless. I am told that the wedding was a traditional Polish one, but in all honesty it wasn't much different from the "traditional" American ones that I have been to. The most surprising thing about the whole affair was the food. It just kept coming and coming! We arrived at the hotel for the after party around 6pm, and fresh food was served every 15 minutes to half hour from then until 5am the next morning. Surely the solution to solving the problem of world hunger is to have a Polish wedding. Insane! I love it!
As for Torun, the city is celebrated as the birthplace of the great astronomor Nikolai Copernicus who is credited with observing that the Earth revolves around the Sun and not the other way around. Of course, this blasphemy led to him being excommunicated from the Catholic Church. Silly man, using science to describe the world...
Poland!
(Written 5/12)
I almost had to sleep at McDonald's last night.
After spending four days in Berlin, I arranged to share a ride with a Dutchman from there across the Polish border, and to within a two hour busride from Poznan, my first port of call in the country. This all went according to plan (which is to say, I started in Berlin and wound up somewhere in Poland), after which things became interesting. When I arrived in Poznan, I had the phone number for a local girl who is a member of an online community of travellers and hosts, to which I also belong (www.hospitalityclub.org). It was 4:30pm and I had anticipated being able to call her when I got in, get directions to her house, and then establish a base there for further exploration of the city. She didn't answer her phone. "No problem", I thought. "I will just pop into one of the hostels and get a room for tonight". That's where things went south.
I walked, with my big backpack, for more than two hours all over the city only to find that every hostel is either full or closed. It was after 7pm. Did I mention that it had been raining the entire time, and my rain jacket is borderline useless?
I then decided that I needed to find another host on hospitalityclub in short order, or I was going to be begging to spend the night at the 24 hour McDonald's I had walked by four times. Fortunately, I was able to find internet despite the late hour and wrote down the numbers for three more local members. Then it was back to the convenience store for another phone card (none of the payphones take real money, can you believe that?).
The first person I called did not answer, the second one was out of the city and so could not help, and the third was also out of the city. He, however, must have recognized the desperation in my voice because he went to great lengths to arrange for me to meet his flatmate at the other end of the city to crash on their couch. I tell you, I was never so happy to see a beat up couch in my life!
On the plus side, I have walked around today and been pleasantly surprised by the discovery that this is a very nice city. As always, there is a central square in the heart of the Old Town which is quite beautiful. So far, I am quite glad that I decided to come to Poland, despite the chaotic first day!
I almost had to sleep at McDonald's last night.
After spending four days in Berlin, I arranged to share a ride with a Dutchman from there across the Polish border, and to within a two hour busride from Poznan, my first port of call in the country. This all went according to plan (which is to say, I started in Berlin and wound up somewhere in Poland), after which things became interesting. When I arrived in Poznan, I had the phone number for a local girl who is a member of an online community of travellers and hosts, to which I also belong (www.hospitalityclub.org). It was 4:30pm and I had anticipated being able to call her when I got in, get directions to her house, and then establish a base there for further exploration of the city. She didn't answer her phone. "No problem", I thought. "I will just pop into one of the hostels and get a room for tonight". That's where things went south.
I walked, with my big backpack, for more than two hours all over the city only to find that every hostel is either full or closed. It was after 7pm. Did I mention that it had been raining the entire time, and my rain jacket is borderline useless?
I then decided that I needed to find another host on hospitalityclub in short order, or I was going to be begging to spend the night at the 24 hour McDonald's I had walked by four times. Fortunately, I was able to find internet despite the late hour and wrote down the numbers for three more local members. Then it was back to the convenience store for another phone card (none of the payphones take real money, can you believe that?).
The first person I called did not answer, the second one was out of the city and so could not help, and the third was also out of the city. He, however, must have recognized the desperation in my voice because he went to great lengths to arrange for me to meet his flatmate at the other end of the city to crash on their couch. I tell you, I was never so happy to see a beat up couch in my life!
On the plus side, I have walked around today and been pleasantly surprised by the discovery that this is a very nice city. As always, there is a central square in the heart of the Old Town which is quite beautiful. So far, I am quite glad that I decided to come to Poland, despite the chaotic first day!
Monday, April 23, 2007
Simply want it all
My mother sometimes tells me that I am spoiled. I'm not sure why that is. I mean yeah, I won't take a boring job, I'm 26 and have never bought a car, and I expect to one day live in a majestic tower with a cheerful yellow labrador retriever (named "Dude") for a companian. Oh, and I've been travelling for 7 months non-stop.
On the other hand, I've had the honor of hand-feeding a silverback gorilla, have always said a heartfelt "Thank you" for every vehicle I've been given and, if someone has to make a tower feel like it has a purposeful existence, it might as well be me!
The irony of the situation is that Mum is the one who actually instilled in me the notion that the only thing between a person and their dreams is the path they choose to take. Maybe that is why I find myself drawn to people with a "can-do" mentality, people like Matthias (who, when asked if something can be done, often replies with, "Sure!"). And now that I am getting to know Melli even better, I am happy to see that she shares his enthusiasm for the possibilities of life.
On the other hand, I've had the honor of hand-feeding a silverback gorilla, have always said a heartfelt "Thank you" for every vehicle I've been given and, if someone has to make a tower feel like it has a purposeful existence, it might as well be me!
The irony of the situation is that Mum is the one who actually instilled in me the notion that the only thing between a person and their dreams is the path they choose to take. Maybe that is why I find myself drawn to people with a "can-do" mentality, people like Matthias (who, when asked if something can be done, often replies with, "Sure!"). And now that I am getting to know Melli even better, I am happy to see that she shares his enthusiasm for the possibilities of life.
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Like settling into a warm bath
I'm home!
Well, not my home but still it feels that way. I've been here with M & M for over a week now, at their cozy Nurnberg apartment. They live just inside of the old city wall, so close that you could hit it with a kitchen sink. In so doing, you would be giving the sink a bird's eye view of the city's northeast tower 50 metres away at the end of the narrow cobblestone lane. Having had such high expectations for my time here in Germany, I am delighted to find myself so satisfied.
Matthias and Melli are wonderful. They have gone far beyond the obligations set forth by friendship, and have made me feel right at home with them and in the city. Matthias even took the week off to act as a guide and chauffer me to heaps of interesting places in nearby villages. Each of these sleepy little villages gives the impression of having been transported straight from the16th century, with their fachwerk architecture and ancient castles perched atop overhanging cliffs. We've seen two-thousand year old Celtic walls, gothic cathedrals rendered in breathtaking detail, and crystal-clear streams meandering through forests a vibrant shade of green which only the spring season can produce. I've also been happily stuffing my face with oodles of scrumptious Bavarian food. Most of it is meat in one delicious form or another, which is an interesting change of pace after a month of eating almost exlusively vegetarian Indian food. Though much of what I've experienced in the time I've been in Germany has been new and interesting to me (I ordered dries 3 im vegler on my second day!), the generosity that M & M have shown me has made this time nothing but exceedingly pleasant.
They made the mistake of telling me that I can stay as long as I like!
Well, not my home but still it feels that way. I've been here with M & M for over a week now, at their cozy Nurnberg apartment. They live just inside of the old city wall, so close that you could hit it with a kitchen sink. In so doing, you would be giving the sink a bird's eye view of the city's northeast tower 50 metres away at the end of the narrow cobblestone lane. Having had such high expectations for my time here in Germany, I am delighted to find myself so satisfied.
Matthias and Melli are wonderful. They have gone far beyond the obligations set forth by friendship, and have made me feel right at home with them and in the city. Matthias even took the week off to act as a guide and chauffer me to heaps of interesting places in nearby villages. Each of these sleepy little villages gives the impression of having been transported straight from the16th century, with their fachwerk architecture and ancient castles perched atop overhanging cliffs. We've seen two-thousand year old Celtic walls, gothic cathedrals rendered in breathtaking detail, and crystal-clear streams meandering through forests a vibrant shade of green which only the spring season can produce. I've also been happily stuffing my face with oodles of scrumptious Bavarian food. Most of it is meat in one delicious form or another, which is an interesting change of pace after a month of eating almost exlusively vegetarian Indian food. Though much of what I've experienced in the time I've been in Germany has been new and interesting to me (I ordered dries 3 im vegler on my second day!), the generosity that M & M have shown me has made this time nothing but exceedingly pleasant.
They made the mistake of telling me that I can stay as long as I like!
Saturday, April 14, 2007
Stopover
I am en route to Frankfurt, and have a noteable stopover in Doha, Qatar. Two hours ago I couldn't have told you the difference between Doha and a donut, such is my naivete. Here's my summary of the place:
Doha is-
whoops, there's my boarding call...
Doha is-
whoops, there's my boarding call...
See ya, wouldn't wanna be ya
(Written April 11)
The chances are minimal that I'm ever coming back to India. In the last month (though it might be difficult to tell from my previous entries), I have spent a significant portion of every day wavering between being frustrated by my dealings with rude Indians and outright pissed off. I try to treat others with the same level of respect that I'd appreciate, and in doing so here I've been lied to, cheated, misdirected, coerced, conned, and generally disrespected on the whole. There are many wonderful things to see (Taj Mahal though...well, it looks just like the postcards), but none that I saw (with the possible exception of Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur) was worth the effort it took to experience it.
Though I am frustrated with how things have gone this last month, I am even more disappointed that I wasn't able to find a way to bridge the gap between myself and the locals. Many travellers that I spoke to love it here. How is it that I was able to get along just fine in Thailand, Laos, and even Cambodia with locals who spoke my language as poorly as I spoke theirs, yet here in India I had to restrain myself from karate chopping nearly everyone I talked to? In one month, I met exactly three people who I feel are decent human beings, and one of them is a Nepalese monk!
It saddens me greatly that I had such wonderful expectations for my time in India, but in the end what I will remember most is how much I looked forward to going back to my guesthouse every day and avoiding talking to any Indians. Clearly the fault lies with me: I just didn't figure out how to garner their respect.
I take some consolation from a conversation I had this evening with a young englishman who has voluntarily elected to spend much of his life here in India. He struck me as the sort that doesn't try to earn anyone's friendship, but rather says what he thinks, and means what he says. His views often come out sounding rather harsh. After talking with him awhile, he had a diagnosis for my problem: "You're too nice". He says that the only way to deal with Indians is to be as rude, self-centered, and relentless as they are. "Then", he said, "you'll get on just fine".
I think maybe that I'd prefer to be frustrated.
Tomorrow I fly to Frankfurt, Germany to visit Matthias and Melli (M & M). I'm so excited! It's been about one year since I last saw him, and four (has it been that long?) since seeing her. This time, I know I'm in for pleasant adventures!
The chances are minimal that I'm ever coming back to India. In the last month (though it might be difficult to tell from my previous entries), I have spent a significant portion of every day wavering between being frustrated by my dealings with rude Indians and outright pissed off. I try to treat others with the same level of respect that I'd appreciate, and in doing so here I've been lied to, cheated, misdirected, coerced, conned, and generally disrespected on the whole. There are many wonderful things to see (Taj Mahal though...well, it looks just like the postcards), but none that I saw (with the possible exception of Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur) was worth the effort it took to experience it.
Though I am frustrated with how things have gone this last month, I am even more disappointed that I wasn't able to find a way to bridge the gap between myself and the locals. Many travellers that I spoke to love it here. How is it that I was able to get along just fine in Thailand, Laos, and even Cambodia with locals who spoke my language as poorly as I spoke theirs, yet here in India I had to restrain myself from karate chopping nearly everyone I talked to? In one month, I met exactly three people who I feel are decent human beings, and one of them is a Nepalese monk!
It saddens me greatly that I had such wonderful expectations for my time in India, but in the end what I will remember most is how much I looked forward to going back to my guesthouse every day and avoiding talking to any Indians. Clearly the fault lies with me: I just didn't figure out how to garner their respect.
I take some consolation from a conversation I had this evening with a young englishman who has voluntarily elected to spend much of his life here in India. He struck me as the sort that doesn't try to earn anyone's friendship, but rather says what he thinks, and means what he says. His views often come out sounding rather harsh. After talking with him awhile, he had a diagnosis for my problem: "You're too nice". He says that the only way to deal with Indians is to be as rude, self-centered, and relentless as they are. "Then", he said, "you'll get on just fine".
I think maybe that I'd prefer to be frustrated.
Tomorrow I fly to Frankfurt, Germany to visit Matthias and Melli (M & M). I'm so excited! It's been about one year since I last saw him, and four (has it been that long?) since seeing her. This time, I know I'm in for pleasant adventures!
It never ends
(Written April 7)
In just the one hour between leaving my guesthouse to arriving at the bus station (to go back to Jodhpur), I've had to deal with four despicable people trying to scam me with all their might. First, the guy from the guesthouse who had gotten into a fight to get my business tried to get me to buy a bus ticket from his friend for 200 rupees when I know it's only 100. I told him what I thought of his shameful attempt to pass himself off as a friend in order to proft in a scam, and sent him on his way. I then went across the road to a small restaurant where I was the only customer, and the kid working the place asked me for my watch and then tried to overcharge my meal ("Oh, that's right. It's 40 rupees, not 60. So sorry!". Meanwhile, the guy collecting money for the bus is just a random Joe sitting in a chair, and I had to fight him tooth and nail just to get a price of 120 rupees. Finally, I thought I'd grab a bag of oranges for the ride and, once again, had to really haggle hard to get a bag of oranges for 10 rupees more than they're worth.
There's no point in trying to take your business elsewhere when you encounter these jerks, because the next guy is a jerk too! Even the people who don't stand to make any profit from deceiving you will get in on the act. Ask a random stranger where the newspaper stand is and he's as likely to tell you to "go left" as he is "go right", even if there is only one stand in the whole city!
In just the one hour between leaving my guesthouse to arriving at the bus station (to go back to Jodhpur), I've had to deal with four despicable people trying to scam me with all their might. First, the guy from the guesthouse who had gotten into a fight to get my business tried to get me to buy a bus ticket from his friend for 200 rupees when I know it's only 100. I told him what I thought of his shameful attempt to pass himself off as a friend in order to proft in a scam, and sent him on his way. I then went across the road to a small restaurant where I was the only customer, and the kid working the place asked me for my watch and then tried to overcharge my meal ("Oh, that's right. It's 40 rupees, not 60. So sorry!". Meanwhile, the guy collecting money for the bus is just a random Joe sitting in a chair, and I had to fight him tooth and nail just to get a price of 120 rupees. Finally, I thought I'd grab a bag of oranges for the ride and, once again, had to really haggle hard to get a bag of oranges for 10 rupees more than they're worth.
There's no point in trying to take your business elsewhere when you encounter these jerks, because the next guy is a jerk too! Even the people who don't stand to make any profit from deceiving you will get in on the act. Ask a random stranger where the newspaper stand is and he's as likely to tell you to "go left" as he is "go right", even if there is only one stand in the whole city!
Biting beetles and camel sex
(Written April 6)
Today was the third and final day of a three-day, two-night camel safari in the Thar Desert. Each day's itinerary went something like this: wake up around 7 and have some breakfast (chai tea, chapati, some vegetable dish which greatly resembles lunch and dinner), saddle and load gear onto camels, ride for three hours, eat lunch and nap in shade between 11am and 4pm (too hot to move), then camp someplace and eat dinner. Noteable additions to this schedule (at no additional charge) included witnessing the intricit ballet of two growling, biting camels mating in the sand, and being kept awake all night by the misplaced bites of wayward dung beetles.
One of our two guides, 13 year old Aman, had a charming way of answering most questions with, "Why not? Everything possible". My kind of guy!
Now I am back in Jaisalmer. As in every other Indian town and city I've visited, the locals seem only to be motivated by the acquisition of money. Thus, once again, there's no real possibility to have an insightful dialogue on culture. It's maddening how rude these people can be!
Today was the third and final day of a three-day, two-night camel safari in the Thar Desert. Each day's itinerary went something like this: wake up around 7 and have some breakfast (chai tea, chapati, some vegetable dish which greatly resembles lunch and dinner), saddle and load gear onto camels, ride for three hours, eat lunch and nap in shade between 11am and 4pm (too hot to move), then camp someplace and eat dinner. Noteable additions to this schedule (at no additional charge) included witnessing the intricit ballet of two growling, biting camels mating in the sand, and being kept awake all night by the misplaced bites of wayward dung beetles.
One of our two guides, 13 year old Aman, had a charming way of answering most questions with, "Why not? Everything possible". My kind of guy!
Now I am back in Jaisalmer. As in every other Indian town and city I've visited, the locals seem only to be motivated by the acquisition of money. Thus, once again, there's no real possibility to have an insightful dialogue on culture. It's maddening how rude these people can be!
Monday, April 02, 2007
The Great Blue City
Hewn from ancient blocks of red-colored sandstone, Mehrangarh fort rises above the great blue city of Jodhpur like a colossal mother hen overlooking her clutch. Though built in the 15th century, the formidable stronghold still looks capable of withstanding nearly any assault. With a battery of cannons aimed in all directions from atop the towering walls, attacking forces would have had to face a barrage of cannon-fire long before they had a chance to inflict any damage on the fort. It has never been conquered.
Now though, Mehrangarh serves a very different purpose. With unobstructed views in a 360 degree range, it is an ideal place to watch the sun rise or set in tranquility. What makes this spot so memorable though is that it provides spectacular views of the sea of hundreds year-old houses painted blue in the tradition of Jodhpur. Many of these old houses have been converted to funky guesthouses, each with rooftop restaurants nearly a stone's throw from the fort walls. It is quite an impressive town, and finally gives me a reason to be excited about coming to India.
Now though, Mehrangarh serves a very different purpose. With unobstructed views in a 360 degree range, it is an ideal place to watch the sun rise or set in tranquility. What makes this spot so memorable though is that it provides spectacular views of the sea of hundreds year-old houses painted blue in the tradition of Jodhpur. Many of these old houses have been converted to funky guesthouses, each with rooftop restaurants nearly a stone's throw from the fort walls. It is quite an impressive town, and finally gives me a reason to be excited about coming to India.
Friday, March 30, 2007
Love in the air
If you, the reader, are destined to be my future wife then stop reading right now.
Udaipur truly is a city of romance, and I could someday imagine proposing to my (future) fiancee here. I've never known what a "romantic" city would be like before coming here but now it makes perfect sense. Newcomers can get lost (both literally and figuratively) amidst the jumbled collection of eclectic houses, seperated from each other by narrow winding lanes where motorcyles and pedestrians must compete with cows and donkeys for space. Sitting on the rooftops watching the sun set or rise over the city and its precious lakes is like nothing I've ever experienced.
After a day of wandering, getting lost, and finding yourself anew, there is always a great meal to be had for cheap at one of these restaurants. With views of Lake Pichola and its island-temples, a person's mind drifts inevitably to thoughts of romance and love.
Though it is the start of summer here and the thermometer makes daily trips to the mid-30's, it's a dry heat and all it takes to cool down is a cold bottle of water and a shady perch at any of the restaurants.
I'm so relieved to have finally found a place like Udaipur. After dashing around for over a week down south in search of fascinating sights, this place stands out like an oasis in the desert. A few days here have rejuvinated my passion for travelling India, and I feel like a new person (or rather, more like the person I really am). To quote the immortal wisdom of Frank Castanza, "I'm like a phoenix, rising!"
Udaipur truly is a city of romance, and I could someday imagine proposing to my (future) fiancee here. I've never known what a "romantic" city would be like before coming here but now it makes perfect sense. Newcomers can get lost (both literally and figuratively) amidst the jumbled collection of eclectic houses, seperated from each other by narrow winding lanes where motorcyles and pedestrians must compete with cows and donkeys for space. Sitting on the rooftops watching the sun set or rise over the city and its precious lakes is like nothing I've ever experienced.
After a day of wandering, getting lost, and finding yourself anew, there is always a great meal to be had for cheap at one of these restaurants. With views of Lake Pichola and its island-temples, a person's mind drifts inevitably to thoughts of romance and love.
Though it is the start of summer here and the thermometer makes daily trips to the mid-30's, it's a dry heat and all it takes to cool down is a cold bottle of water and a shady perch at any of the restaurants.
I'm so relieved to have finally found a place like Udaipur. After dashing around for over a week down south in search of fascinating sights, this place stands out like an oasis in the desert. A few days here have rejuvinated my passion for travelling India, and I feel like a new person (or rather, more like the person I really am). To quote the immortal wisdom of Frank Castanza, "I'm like a phoenix, rising!"
Unexpected meetings
(Written 28 March)
So, I'm happy again. I decided that I was too bored with the south to bother travelling overland anymore, and so bought a last minute flight to Mumbai (formerly Bombay). Furthermore, I didn't want to deal with the usual hassle associated with finding accomodation at a reasonable price in a new city. Instead, I finally made use of my association with an online resource for travellers (www.hospitalityclub.org) and rang up a perfect stranger in search of accomodation. I wound up getting in touch with Chetan and his wife Manju, both successful businesspeople in the city. More to the point though, they are both incredibly kind and generous hosts. They not only provided me with a very comfortable place to stay in their home, but also set me up with a guide for the old part of the city (full of winding alleyways and the like), took me to an art gallery opening, and gave me great advice about where to go in India. It turns out that they both travel quite a bit for work, and we've made tentative plans to meet up again in Switzerland in just a few week's time.
Since I arrived here, I have been stress-free for the first time since arriving in India. Nevertheless, I am going to try to get another standby flight tomorrow, this time bound for Udaipur in the desert state of Rajastan.
So, I'm happy again. I decided that I was too bored with the south to bother travelling overland anymore, and so bought a last minute flight to Mumbai (formerly Bombay). Furthermore, I didn't want to deal with the usual hassle associated with finding accomodation at a reasonable price in a new city. Instead, I finally made use of my association with an online resource for travellers (www.hospitalityclub.org) and rang up a perfect stranger in search of accomodation. I wound up getting in touch with Chetan and his wife Manju, both successful businesspeople in the city. More to the point though, they are both incredibly kind and generous hosts. They not only provided me with a very comfortable place to stay in their home, but also set me up with a guide for the old part of the city (full of winding alleyways and the like), took me to an art gallery opening, and gave me great advice about where to go in India. It turns out that they both travel quite a bit for work, and we've made tentative plans to meet up again in Switzerland in just a few week's time.
Since I arrived here, I have been stress-free for the first time since arriving in India. Nevertheless, I am going to try to get another standby flight tomorrow, this time bound for Udaipur in the desert state of Rajastan.
Monday, March 26, 2007
Very Un-Luke
If India is an exercise in patience, I am grossly out of shape. I like to think of myself as a naturally relaxed, uncomplicated sort of person who doesn't rouse to anger without due cause. India, it turns out, is providing ample cause. Not an hour goes by that I'm not presented with a situation (or person) that irritates unecessarily. Drivers deliberately take detours and then try to charge more than the agreed price, people shove their way to the front of whatever line happens to exist, and the food (though delicious) often takes twice as long to get to me as it does to the two Indians sitting right next to me, and so much more. And of course, EVERYONE tries their damndest to get me to part with extra rupees.
Now, I don't mind putting up with all of these vexing scenarios, provided there is a reason for it. So far, I've yet to see anything worth writing home about (hence the lack of journals). The south is simply uninteresting from my perspective as a first time visitor. I've finally had it up to here (right up around the bridge of my nose), and I'm flying from here in Bangalore up to Mumbai tonight. I'm optimistic that the northwestern desert state of Rajastan will provide some sites worth visiting. If not, I think I'm going to punch someone soon. Anyone'll do.
The kid sitting next to me (who, incidentally, runs this internet shop) is looking at porn with nothing resembling discretion. Earlier this morning, a man took a break from cleaning the bathroom to watch me pee. What the hell is going on here?!
Now, I don't mind putting up with all of these vexing scenarios, provided there is a reason for it. So far, I've yet to see anything worth writing home about (hence the lack of journals). The south is simply uninteresting from my perspective as a first time visitor. I've finally had it up to here (right up around the bridge of my nose), and I'm flying from here in Bangalore up to Mumbai tonight. I'm optimistic that the northwestern desert state of Rajastan will provide some sites worth visiting. If not, I think I'm going to punch someone soon. Anyone'll do.
The kid sitting next to me (who, incidentally, runs this internet shop) is looking at porn with nothing resembling discretion. Earlier this morning, a man took a break from cleaning the bathroom to watch me pee. What the hell is going on here?!
Thursday, March 22, 2007
Iiiinteresting
I've only been here four days, but I'm making my way steadily up the coast. I started in Trivandrum, and have moved on to Varkala, Allepey, and now Ernakulum. Although I have yet to be very impressed with the unique culture in these cities, I have had a few experiences worth remembering. These include: helping fifty villagers pull in a HUGE net from the beach by hand (it took an hour and a half, and we nearly didn't make it), having an Indian outfit custom made for me (it's super thin and absolute heaven in a breeze), and being driven around for two hours by a tuk-tuk driver for free. His only requirement was that I had to stop in a few very expensive shops for five minutes. He claimed he didn't get paid by the shops, but I didn't pay him either so I don't know how that worked out for him. He kept saying, "You happy, my happy". Whatever, free-ninety-free is within my budget!
Tonight I go to a Kathakali show, which is apparently an ancient form of storytelling through interpretive dance, intricit hand movements, and elaborate face paint. Sign me up!
(Oh, and as far as the new and delicious foods I've tried this includes: masala dosa, iddly, vada, oothappam, porrosa, cinnamon tree bark, and buttermilk which is made up of milk, salt, ginger, and chilies)
Tonight I go to a Kathakali show, which is apparently an ancient form of storytelling through interpretive dance, intricit hand movements, and elaborate face paint. Sign me up!
(Oh, and as far as the new and delicious foods I've tried this includes: masala dosa, iddly, vada, oothappam, porrosa, cinnamon tree bark, and buttermilk which is made up of milk, salt, ginger, and chilies)
Say what??
(Written March 18)
They say that India has the most english speaking people of any country in the world. So how come I can't understand 90% of what they say? Seriously, I had less trouble communicating in Laos than here and that includes several conversations with villagers that were based almost entirely on hand gestures. Here, if someone doesn't understand me (which happens rather more than I like) the verbal response is almost always, "Yes". I can be asking for a recommendation of the best fish, telling someone that I've been in India for less than 24 hours, or asking where the nearest tourist information centre is. It doesn't matter: the answer is "Yes". As if that weren't enough, most everyone I've talked to ("at" is more like it) accompanies their monosyllabic response with a curious side to side head wobble. This MUST have been the source of inspiration for whomever created the hugely successful bobble-head figurines because the resemblance is uncanny. Just as "Yes" serves as a catch-all reply to anything, the head wobble too seems to be appropriate for any situation. It's basically useless that way, as far as I can tell, because there's never a moment when a head wobble is out of place and thus doesn't really serve to convey any relevant information:
"Excuse me, do you know where the blah blah guesthouse is?"
"Yes" [head wobble]
"Great! Where is it?"
"Yes" [wobble wobble]
[Wait five seconds] "Which way is it? Is it that way?"
"Yes, yes." [vigourous wobble]
"That way?" (pointing)
[wobble]
"Okay, what the f*#k? Thanks anyways, bye."
[you guessed it: wobble wobble]
Now, I don't mean to be culturally insensitive. I'm just trying to work out how I'm going to find anything. On the plus side, the food is amazing. Masala dosa...heaven on tongue!
They say that India has the most english speaking people of any country in the world. So how come I can't understand 90% of what they say? Seriously, I had less trouble communicating in Laos than here and that includes several conversations with villagers that were based almost entirely on hand gestures. Here, if someone doesn't understand me (which happens rather more than I like) the verbal response is almost always, "Yes". I can be asking for a recommendation of the best fish, telling someone that I've been in India for less than 24 hours, or asking where the nearest tourist information centre is. It doesn't matter: the answer is "Yes". As if that weren't enough, most everyone I've talked to ("at" is more like it) accompanies their monosyllabic response with a curious side to side head wobble. This MUST have been the source of inspiration for whomever created the hugely successful bobble-head figurines because the resemblance is uncanny. Just as "Yes" serves as a catch-all reply to anything, the head wobble too seems to be appropriate for any situation. It's basically useless that way, as far as I can tell, because there's never a moment when a head wobble is out of place and thus doesn't really serve to convey any relevant information:
"Excuse me, do you know where the blah blah guesthouse is?"
"Yes" [head wobble]
"Great! Where is it?"
"Yes" [wobble wobble]
[Wait five seconds] "Which way is it? Is it that way?"
"Yes, yes." [vigourous wobble]
"That way?" (pointing)
[wobble]
"Okay, what the f*#k? Thanks anyways, bye."
[you guessed it: wobble wobble]
Now, I don't mean to be culturally insensitive. I'm just trying to work out how I'm going to find anything. On the plus side, the food is amazing. Masala dosa...heaven on tongue!
Saturday, March 17, 2007
SE Asia no more
Tomorrow I fly to India, to begin the next neurotic (and undoubtedly memorable) stage of this trip. In the two months that I've travelled Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia, I have...
-accidentally "discovered" the most beautiful temples I've ever seen (Ayuthaya)
-been offered at least a dozen jobs
-shared more meals with local strangers than I can recall
-learned how to tell a woman that she is beautiful in Thai (they're ALL gorgeous!)
-named a constellation after a remote mountain village in northern Thailand
-eaten a raw duck egg that I plucked out of a small stream behind a villager's farm in Laos
-come to really enjoy a round of thwart-the-scam-artist-with-humor
-been warned not to get too friendly with a hill-tribe villager, in case her husband comes around
-met a 10-month old girl who has the cutest Yoda ears I've seen since...well, since Yoda
-been invited into the homes of two honest tuk-tuk drivers
-bartered unsuccesfully for two hours for a ride, then settled on another driver for a higher fare
-been invited to live and work with a Thai family
-cuddled with a drunken dutchman, to stave off hypothermia
-played futbol with local kids on a sandy island in the middle of a river
-accidentally left behind my favorite beanie, a jacket, ear plugs, two shirts, and a hat at various guesthouses
-broken a no-puke streak that was nearly two decades long
-swam with water buffalos in the Mekong river
-made plans to go ice fishing with a Finn
-been outsmarted by a little girl at tic-tac-toe
-taken exactly one hot shower
-met a poor, uneducated Cambodian boy who could name the capital of every country Sam and I threw at him
-eaten foods so spicy it pains my tongue even now just thinking about it
-seen mammals unidentifiable even to me, on sale for food
-driven a tuk-tuk through a coconut farm
-been woken up by the call of wild gibbons in Khao Yai National Park
-etc., etc.
I never thought I'd say this, but I love this part of the world. I'm really going to miss Thailand in particular. Many thanks to those who made the last two months what they were.
-accidentally "discovered" the most beautiful temples I've ever seen (Ayuthaya)
-been offered at least a dozen jobs
-shared more meals with local strangers than I can recall
-learned how to tell a woman that she is beautiful in Thai (they're ALL gorgeous!)
-named a constellation after a remote mountain village in northern Thailand
-eaten a raw duck egg that I plucked out of a small stream behind a villager's farm in Laos
-come to really enjoy a round of thwart-the-scam-artist-with-humor
-been warned not to get too friendly with a hill-tribe villager, in case her husband comes around
-met a 10-month old girl who has the cutest Yoda ears I've seen since...well, since Yoda
-been invited into the homes of two honest tuk-tuk drivers
-bartered unsuccesfully for two hours for a ride, then settled on another driver for a higher fare
-been invited to live and work with a Thai family
-cuddled with a drunken dutchman, to stave off hypothermia
-played futbol with local kids on a sandy island in the middle of a river
-accidentally left behind my favorite beanie, a jacket, ear plugs, two shirts, and a hat at various guesthouses
-broken a no-puke streak that was nearly two decades long
-swam with water buffalos in the Mekong river
-made plans to go ice fishing with a Finn
-been outsmarted by a little girl at tic-tac-toe
-taken exactly one hot shower
-met a poor, uneducated Cambodian boy who could name the capital of every country Sam and I threw at him
-eaten foods so spicy it pains my tongue even now just thinking about it
-seen mammals unidentifiable even to me, on sale for food
-driven a tuk-tuk through a coconut farm
-been woken up by the call of wild gibbons in Khao Yai National Park
-etc., etc.
I never thought I'd say this, but I love this part of the world. I'm really going to miss Thailand in particular. Many thanks to those who made the last two months what they were.
Sam goes home
(Written March 16)
It wasn't our first trip together, but it was memorable nonetheless. After making my way solo through northern Thailand, down through Laos, and back to Bangkok at a leisurely pace, I found my head sort of spinning from the quick five day trip in Cambodia with Sam. I have to give him credit though: if we'd gone at my pace, we wouldn't have seen half the stuff that we did. We saw several museums, cruised through some great markets, and of course saw the wonder that is Angkor. We even managed to witness firsthand the corruption of some nasty police looking to make a dollar from a honest, hard-working tuk-tuk driver. If that wasn't enough, we kept this pace despite the food poisoning that wreaked havoc on poor Sam's system.
Historically, he is noted for his ability to fall asleep at a hat's notice when on holiday. He outdid himself this time though, as it seemed like he fell asleep nearly anywhere there was a chance to. Be it at an art gallery, in a ancient temple, or just at the guesthouse, old Sam took the opportunity to rest and recuperate when it was available. For a while there, I thought he was a goner.
I'm not sure, but I think he hates ice now.
Oh, and did I mention that we took turns driving a tuk-tuk? Check out the pictures!
It wasn't our first trip together, but it was memorable nonetheless. After making my way solo through northern Thailand, down through Laos, and back to Bangkok at a leisurely pace, I found my head sort of spinning from the quick five day trip in Cambodia with Sam. I have to give him credit though: if we'd gone at my pace, we wouldn't have seen half the stuff that we did. We saw several museums, cruised through some great markets, and of course saw the wonder that is Angkor. We even managed to witness firsthand the corruption of some nasty police looking to make a dollar from a honest, hard-working tuk-tuk driver. If that wasn't enough, we kept this pace despite the food poisoning that wreaked havoc on poor Sam's system.
Historically, he is noted for his ability to fall asleep at a hat's notice when on holiday. He outdid himself this time though, as it seemed like he fell asleep nearly anywhere there was a chance to. Be it at an art gallery, in a ancient temple, or just at the guesthouse, old Sam took the opportunity to rest and recuperate when it was available. For a while there, I thought he was a goner.
I'm not sure, but I think he hates ice now.
Oh, and did I mention that we took turns driving a tuk-tuk? Check out the pictures!
Friday, March 09, 2007
What a Wat!
Angkor Wat....whooo hoo!! It's huge, beautiful, and awesome. On the downside, it is swarming with herds of Japanese tour groups (I call them Agoraphobic sheep). Nevertheless, Sam and I were able to take great pictures and even find some very peaceful places to enjoy views of the surrounding forests. "Forests?", you ask. I was surprised too. While the temple itself is truly wonderful, the land it sits on is just as worthy of mention. The tranquil forests surrounding the massive temple is perfect for a quiet stroll when you've had enough of the throngs of tourists. Pehraps best of all, the $20 ticket gets you access to a number of other intriguing temples as well. Ta Phrom is perhaps one of the more well known, as it is the place where the creeping roots of massive trees are slowly tearing the ancient temple apart. You don't have to run off to your room to pack your bags in order to see the temple before it's gone though, because there is currently an ongoing project to restore much of the temple without destroying the enormous trees. According to the leaf-raker (who also became my guide for making great pictures), it should take about ten years to complete the rebuilding effort. Let's put it this way, I'd come back tomorrow to see it, so in ten years I'll definitely be ready to return.
Saturday, March 03, 2007
Beloved King
His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, Rama 1X is the longest reigning king in the world, having been the head of the country for an incredible 60 years. For sixty years he has maintained a reputation for working tirelessly for the benefit of the Thai people. Because of this, Thais pay their respects to him everywhere you look. With the notable exception of Pattaya (see previous entry), every city, town, and village that I've been to in Thailand has been riddled with the king's flag and enormous photographs. On top of this, every Monday is the King's day and most Thais wear the yellow shirt that commemorates their adored leader. Walking along the busy streets of Bangkok on a Monday is a bit disorienting, because it feels like you're walking into the sun: everyone is wearing yellow. While I don't have a shirt, I do wear the yellow rubber wristband (just like the Lance Armstrong one) that say "Long Live the King". At the movie theatres, you are expected to stand while a video commemorating the king plays prior to start of the film.
I don't actually know for sure what he has accomplished to warrant such praise (it's hard to unravel 60 years of history while backpacking for one month), but I've asked a few people just what it is about him that people admire so much. I was amazed when I heard things like, "He works so hard, more than anyone in Thailand", and, "He is like a father and a big brother to us all". Moreover, he seems unusally gifted in a wide variety of fields (perhaps broadening his appeal even further). He's been a scientist, a painter, a carpenter, a photographer (when was the last time you saw George Bush or Tony Blair take loving pictures of the hardworking citizens of their countries?), a jazz musician (from his time spent in Switzerland as a youth), and more.
I have yet to travel into southern Thailand, but it would be interesting to see if love for the King is as unanimous there (particularly in the three troubled provinces bordering Malaysia) as it seems to be everywhere else.
Long live the King!
I don't actually know for sure what he has accomplished to warrant such praise (it's hard to unravel 60 years of history while backpacking for one month), but I've asked a few people just what it is about him that people admire so much. I was amazed when I heard things like, "He works so hard, more than anyone in Thailand", and, "He is like a father and a big brother to us all". Moreover, he seems unusally gifted in a wide variety of fields (perhaps broadening his appeal even further). He's been a scientist, a painter, a carpenter, a photographer (when was the last time you saw George Bush or Tony Blair take loving pictures of the hardworking citizens of their countries?), a jazz musician (from his time spent in Switzerland as a youth), and more.
I have yet to travel into southern Thailand, but it would be interesting to see if love for the King is as unanimous there (particularly in the three troubled provinces bordering Malaysia) as it seems to be everywhere else.
Long live the King!
Friday, March 02, 2007
2nd overseas birthday
(Written March 1)
I'm back in Ayuthaya again, staying with the wonderful Thai family that I met the first time I was here (back in January). It's been one of those doing-nothing-is-still-doing-something experiences. Gift, Beau, and their mother, Jane (my Thai mama!) have been wonderful to spend time with, as I'd remembered from the last visit. On day one (3 days ago), Gift said that she wanted to take advantage of her brief holiday (she's just graduated high school, and Beau will be done this weekend) by going to the beach. After a significant amount of discussion and planning (I almost gave up on the whole idea), it was agreed that I would go with Gift and Ying, a family friend, to Pattaya for a two day, one night trip. There really isn't much good to say about Pattaya, except that it's one of those places worth seeing once. I think Gift and Ying were entertained by the fact that nearly every single Thai girl we walked by said something to me to try and get my business ("Hi handsome", "Where you go?", "You come alone?"). There was no sign of the usual Thai conservative culture, and interestingly it's the only place I've been in Thailand where you have to search to find pictures of the king. Maybe this is one place where the locals don't want to be seen by the king, or vice versa. The place is a bit like Las Vegas combined with Miami beach, with a healthy dose of sleaziness mixed in. There are no Thai men, only fat, greasy farang with beautiful young Thai women hanging on their arms. This would be fine, except the men have a look of greedy pride on their faces that suggests they've done well to purchase this girl, and the Thai women put on a hopelessly cheerful act of being overjoyed at being on the arm of this guy, yet when he looks away they have the most pained look on their faces. Whether it's from boredom or depression, I don't know. Maybe shame.
While Pattaya itself left little to be desired, I had a really great time with Gift and Ying. I pretended to be married to Ying and the father of Gift in order to protect myself from the local girls' attention. It didn't really work, but it was good for a laugh between the three of us.
Upon returning to Ayuthaya yesterday, I've just spent time at the two businesses that the family has (bike rental, bike rental plus guesthouse) with them. We watched some futbol (okay, I watched and they laughed at my complete absorption in the game), had some fruit shakes, ate yummy Thai food (note: if a Thai person says these peppers are not spicy, don't believe it!), and joked around. I offered Gift some business ideas for her to earn money to travel to Italy or Australia sooner, but for some reason she rejected them all. Juggling oranges in the street and singing, "Rent a bike, rent a bike, rent a bike heeeeeere!" sounds like a great business plan. I don't know why she didn't like that one.
Anyhow, I was surprised and honoured when Jane (mama) told me that I am a "good boy" and that I should come back to Ayuthaya someday to live and work with them. I would love to do it. After all, khon thai khawp (I am Thai)!
It's been a great birthday.
I'm back in Ayuthaya again, staying with the wonderful Thai family that I met the first time I was here (back in January). It's been one of those doing-nothing-is-still-doing-something experiences. Gift, Beau, and their mother, Jane (my Thai mama!) have been wonderful to spend time with, as I'd remembered from the last visit. On day one (3 days ago), Gift said that she wanted to take advantage of her brief holiday (she's just graduated high school, and Beau will be done this weekend) by going to the beach. After a significant amount of discussion and planning (I almost gave up on the whole idea), it was agreed that I would go with Gift and Ying, a family friend, to Pattaya for a two day, one night trip. There really isn't much good to say about Pattaya, except that it's one of those places worth seeing once. I think Gift and Ying were entertained by the fact that nearly every single Thai girl we walked by said something to me to try and get my business ("Hi handsome", "Where you go?", "You come alone?"). There was no sign of the usual Thai conservative culture, and interestingly it's the only place I've been in Thailand where you have to search to find pictures of the king. Maybe this is one place where the locals don't want to be seen by the king, or vice versa. The place is a bit like Las Vegas combined with Miami beach, with a healthy dose of sleaziness mixed in. There are no Thai men, only fat, greasy farang with beautiful young Thai women hanging on their arms. This would be fine, except the men have a look of greedy pride on their faces that suggests they've done well to purchase this girl, and the Thai women put on a hopelessly cheerful act of being overjoyed at being on the arm of this guy, yet when he looks away they have the most pained look on their faces. Whether it's from boredom or depression, I don't know. Maybe shame.
While Pattaya itself left little to be desired, I had a really great time with Gift and Ying. I pretended to be married to Ying and the father of Gift in order to protect myself from the local girls' attention. It didn't really work, but it was good for a laugh between the three of us.
Upon returning to Ayuthaya yesterday, I've just spent time at the two businesses that the family has (bike rental, bike rental plus guesthouse) with them. We watched some futbol (okay, I watched and they laughed at my complete absorption in the game), had some fruit shakes, ate yummy Thai food (note: if a Thai person says these peppers are not spicy, don't believe it!), and joked around. I offered Gift some business ideas for her to earn money to travel to Italy or Australia sooner, but for some reason she rejected them all. Juggling oranges in the street and singing, "Rent a bike, rent a bike, rent a bike heeeeeere!" sounds like a great business plan. I don't know why she didn't like that one.
Anyhow, I was surprised and honoured when Jane (mama) told me that I am a "good boy" and that I should come back to Ayuthaya someday to live and work with them. I would love to do it. After all, khon thai khawp (I am Thai)!
It's been a great birthday.
Sunday, February 25, 2007
Modes of Transportation
(Written February 22)
The various modes of transportation in Thailand and Laos are an experience unto themselves. In less than 48 hours, I've gone from the very south of Laos (Don Det island in Si Pahn Don) to Pak Chong (a couple of hours from Bangkok). This involved one boat, 4 so-called VIP busses, one local bus (recall mention of glorified pickup truck), a tuk-tuk, and an 8 hour train. Oy vay!
I've come to Pak Chong because it's the gateway to Khao Yai National Park, which is supposed to be one of the best in Asia, if not the world. I'm a bit skeptical of the claim though. I'm sure there are some amazing animals here (gibbons, gaurs, elephants, various monkeys, and a dazzling array of birds if you're into that kind of thing), but I haven't seen anything in either Thailand or Laos to suggest that managing wildlife is something that is invested in very heavily (if at all). Still, we'll see.
The various modes of transportation in Thailand and Laos are an experience unto themselves. In less than 48 hours, I've gone from the very south of Laos (Don Det island in Si Pahn Don) to Pak Chong (a couple of hours from Bangkok). This involved one boat, 4 so-called VIP busses, one local bus (recall mention of glorified pickup truck), a tuk-tuk, and an 8 hour train. Oy vay!
I've come to Pak Chong because it's the gateway to Khao Yai National Park, which is supposed to be one of the best in Asia, if not the world. I'm a bit skeptical of the claim though. I'm sure there are some amazing animals here (gibbons, gaurs, elephants, various monkeys, and a dazzling array of birds if you're into that kind of thing), but I haven't seen anything in either Thailand or Laos to suggest that managing wildlife is something that is invested in very heavily (if at all). Still, we'll see.
Don't get lost
(Written February 16)
I don't know if it's luck or skill or a bit of both, but I haven't had too much trouble finding my way around every new place I come to. It helps that most places here are rather small and have essentially one main road with a bunch of side streets. But on the occasion that I have found myself in need of direction, it can happen that the following conversation might occur:
Luke (L): "Sabaidee. Do you know where I can find a guesthouse?"
Local (L2): "Guest house".
L: "Yes, guesthouse".
L2: "Guesthouse" [it's said as a statement, not a question]
L: "Um yes, a guesthouse. For sleeping [gesturing accordingly]".
L2: "Uh." [this is a very common statement here and seems to mean just about anything at all, so no help there]
L: "Guesthouse this way?" [pointing down lane, simplifying conversation to bare necessities]
L2: "Uh uh!", nodding the head suddenly. He then says a BUNCH of stuff in Laos (none of which I comprehend) and waves his hand in a vague way that brings to mind a maestro conducting an orchestra while asleep. I assume this is meant as a way to point me down a street and turn at some point, so I try to repeat the gesture.
L: "This way", I point straight down the lane, "and then turn left at the corner?" (again, what I believe to be a clear sign of direction and hoping just to get started in the correct direction)
L2: "Uh. [gestures vaguely]...then rye ["right", I think]". This would be a good turn of events, if he hadn't just pointed left.
L: "Okay, so I go this way...", and repeat the sequence of gestures I'd done earlier for confirmation.
L2: Without responding, he turns back towards his shop and yells at someone (his wife, I presume, since the women clearly run this country). She shows up, and I have the EXACT same conversation with her, except that they talk a whole bunch and she seems noncomittal as to which direction I go. Eventually they just go back to whatever they were doing, clearly becoming bored with the conversation.
L: Finally - exhausted, sweaty from the bus or train ride, and still having no idea where I'm going - I cut my losses by saying khawp jai lai lai (thank you very much) and begin looking for another person to repeat the experience with.
I don't know if it's luck or skill or a bit of both, but I haven't had too much trouble finding my way around every new place I come to. It helps that most places here are rather small and have essentially one main road with a bunch of side streets. But on the occasion that I have found myself in need of direction, it can happen that the following conversation might occur:
Luke (L): "Sabaidee. Do you know where I can find a guesthouse?"
Local (L2): "Guest house".
L: "Yes, guesthouse".
L2: "Guesthouse" [it's said as a statement, not a question]
L: "Um yes, a guesthouse. For sleeping [gesturing accordingly]".
L2: "Uh." [this is a very common statement here and seems to mean just about anything at all, so no help there]
L: "Guesthouse this way?" [pointing down lane, simplifying conversation to bare necessities]
L2: "Uh uh!", nodding the head suddenly. He then says a BUNCH of stuff in Laos (none of which I comprehend) and waves his hand in a vague way that brings to mind a maestro conducting an orchestra while asleep. I assume this is meant as a way to point me down a street and turn at some point, so I try to repeat the gesture.
L: "This way", I point straight down the lane, "and then turn left at the corner?" (again, what I believe to be a clear sign of direction and hoping just to get started in the correct direction)
L2: "Uh. [gestures vaguely]...then rye ["right", I think]". This would be a good turn of events, if he hadn't just pointed left.
L: "Okay, so I go this way...", and repeat the sequence of gestures I'd done earlier for confirmation.
L2: Without responding, he turns back towards his shop and yells at someone (his wife, I presume, since the women clearly run this country). She shows up, and I have the EXACT same conversation with her, except that they talk a whole bunch and she seems noncomittal as to which direction I go. Eventually they just go back to whatever they were doing, clearly becoming bored with the conversation.
L: Finally - exhausted, sweaty from the bus or train ride, and still having no idea where I'm going - I cut my losses by saying khawp jai lai lai (thank you very much) and begin looking for another person to repeat the experience with.
The act of doing nothing
(Written February 14)
There's only one way to explain how my time here in Vang Vieng has been: aaahhhhhhhhhh....It's day four of doing literally nothing worth mentioning (and yet, here I am telling you about it). On day one, I rented an inner tube with every other tourist in the town and spent a glorious 5 hours floating down the Mekong river. My bum was wet the whole time, but that's a small price to pay. Among the highlights is floating with an Irish girl who had the hilarious tendency to warn us of the impending "ass whooping" whenever there were shallow spots ahead (water level is low, so you'll knock your bum off if you don't pay attention).
You might be thinking to yourself, "Why, it sounds like you were doing something after all!". Not true. That was the first day. Since then, I've spent three days in a hammock on the very edge of the river reading, napping, and having food delivered to me. Seriously, I could step out of my little bungalow directly into the water's edge. And the best part is that it's free! How good is that?
There only two counterpoints to the last few days is that a) I rolled my left ankle last night and am dubious about my mobility at the moment (it's like the millionth time, and so that ankle is beyond full and rapid recovery) and, b)I made the erroneous mistake of letting a strange Thai guy share my guesthouse last night, figuring that the bed is huge so why not? At some point in the middle of the night, I had to knock his hand off my back (for the third time) and firmly explain to him that there are two sides to the bed: one for him and one for me. First thing in the morning, I packed up and - bad ankle or no - got the hell out of there!
I'm heading south to the capital city of Vientiene now, with the intent of getting down to Si Pahn Don (4,000 Islands) on the border with Cambodia for a few more days of lazing about in a hammock before my visa expires.
There's only one way to explain how my time here in Vang Vieng has been: aaahhhhhhhhhh....It's day four of doing literally nothing worth mentioning (and yet, here I am telling you about it). On day one, I rented an inner tube with every other tourist in the town and spent a glorious 5 hours floating down the Mekong river. My bum was wet the whole time, but that's a small price to pay. Among the highlights is floating with an Irish girl who had the hilarious tendency to warn us of the impending "ass whooping" whenever there were shallow spots ahead (water level is low, so you'll knock your bum off if you don't pay attention).
You might be thinking to yourself, "Why, it sounds like you were doing something after all!". Not true. That was the first day. Since then, I've spent three days in a hammock on the very edge of the river reading, napping, and having food delivered to me. Seriously, I could step out of my little bungalow directly into the water's edge. And the best part is that it's free! How good is that?
There only two counterpoints to the last few days is that a) I rolled my left ankle last night and am dubious about my mobility at the moment (it's like the millionth time, and so that ankle is beyond full and rapid recovery) and, b)I made the erroneous mistake of letting a strange Thai guy share my guesthouse last night, figuring that the bed is huge so why not? At some point in the middle of the night, I had to knock his hand off my back (for the third time) and firmly explain to him that there are two sides to the bed: one for him and one for me. First thing in the morning, I packed up and - bad ankle or no - got the hell out of there!
I'm heading south to the capital city of Vientiene now, with the intent of getting down to Si Pahn Don (4,000 Islands) on the border with Cambodia for a few more days of lazing about in a hammock before my visa expires.
Friday, February 23, 2007
Northern Laos
(Written February 7)
Some things are worth the effort it takes to experience them, and the north of Laos is one of these. The roads alone are enough to frustrate you senseless. The steep breakpad-melting hills, endless potholes, and cramped conditions (the "busses" - little more than glorified pickup trucks - don't move until every last inch of space is taken up with people, rice, and chickens) generally make for long, tiring rides. 150 kilometres doesn't seem like much, until you've spent four hours with your face in a standing stranger's crotch and a snoring pig in a bamboo wicker cage under your feet.
Like I said though, it's worth it. Man, is it ever.
With incredible mountain views in nearly every town and village, it's a postcard waiting to be made everywhere you look. And then there're the rivers. It didn't take me long to decide that a bath taken in a river with a glorious view of surrounding mountains at sunset beats a cold shower in a mosquito-infested bathroom any day!
I've connected with a group of travellers (from France, Germany, Israel, Holland, and Belgium) on one of these bus rides between Vieng Khom and Vieng Thong and it looks like we're all heading the same way for a bit. East it is!
Some things are worth the effort it takes to experience them, and the north of Laos is one of these. The roads alone are enough to frustrate you senseless. The steep breakpad-melting hills, endless potholes, and cramped conditions (the "busses" - little more than glorified pickup trucks - don't move until every last inch of space is taken up with people, rice, and chickens) generally make for long, tiring rides. 150 kilometres doesn't seem like much, until you've spent four hours with your face in a standing stranger's crotch and a snoring pig in a bamboo wicker cage under your feet.
Like I said though, it's worth it. Man, is it ever.
With incredible mountain views in nearly every town and village, it's a postcard waiting to be made everywhere you look. And then there're the rivers. It didn't take me long to decide that a bath taken in a river with a glorious view of surrounding mountains at sunset beats a cold shower in a mosquito-infested bathroom any day!
I've connected with a group of travellers (from France, Germany, Israel, Holland, and Belgium) on one of these bus rides between Vieng Khom and Vieng Thong and it looks like we're all heading the same way for a bit. East it is!
Thursday, February 15, 2007
The end of an era
(Written: 30 January)
Yesterday, a 15 year streak of blissful vomit-free existence came to a sudden (and rather unnatractive) end in the mountains of north Laos. The picturesque view of the Nam Ou river flowing between soaring cliffs was at distinct odds with the biohazard that erupted from me this afternoon. On the four hour bus from Luang Prabang to here, I was forced to strategically place myself near the back of the bus so that I could leap out at a moment's notice should the threatening rumblings in all areas of my digestive system escalate to full-scale, all-out bowel evacuation. That's four glorious hours of wondering whether the next rhino-sized pothole was going to be the one to finally shake the shit right out of me.
I survived the trip with dignity more or less intact and crawled to the nearest guest house, where I immediately collapsed into a heap on the bed. Upon waking two hours later, the worst of my fears became reality. I suppose I ought to be grateful that the no-puke streak of which I was so proud came to an end the way it did. It was fast, furious, and left me with no choice but to admit overwhelming defeat. Two minutes after emptying myself from the other end as well, I again dragged myself back into bed. There I remained for the next 16 hours.
The look on the guesthouse owner's face when I emerged the next morning was nothing short of precious. Poor woman probably figured she would have to explain to the authorities why there was a dead farang locked in one of her rooms.
I'm feeling much better today, and am even considering eating dinner at the Indian place on this side of the river. The streak's not even a day old now, so what have I got to lose?
Yesterday, a 15 year streak of blissful vomit-free existence came to a sudden (and rather unnatractive) end in the mountains of north Laos. The picturesque view of the Nam Ou river flowing between soaring cliffs was at distinct odds with the biohazard that erupted from me this afternoon. On the four hour bus from Luang Prabang to here, I was forced to strategically place myself near the back of the bus so that I could leap out at a moment's notice should the threatening rumblings in all areas of my digestive system escalate to full-scale, all-out bowel evacuation. That's four glorious hours of wondering whether the next rhino-sized pothole was going to be the one to finally shake the shit right out of me.
I survived the trip with dignity more or less intact and crawled to the nearest guest house, where I immediately collapsed into a heap on the bed. Upon waking two hours later, the worst of my fears became reality. I suppose I ought to be grateful that the no-puke streak of which I was so proud came to an end the way it did. It was fast, furious, and left me with no choice but to admit overwhelming defeat. Two minutes after emptying myself from the other end as well, I again dragged myself back into bed. There I remained for the next 16 hours.
The look on the guesthouse owner's face when I emerged the next morning was nothing short of precious. Poor woman probably figured she would have to explain to the authorities why there was a dead farang locked in one of her rooms.
I'm feeling much better today, and am even considering eating dinner at the Indian place on this side of the river. The streak's not even a day old now, so what have I got to lose?
Monday, January 29, 2007
Laying low in Luang Prabang
I've been here for three days, doing very little. Luang Prabang is just a gorgeous (yes that's right, I said "gorgeous" and I'm not taking it back!) little city. The city is basically a peninsula, with rivers on three sides. The river banks themselves are scenic, as they are covered in small farm plots for various crops. There is an interesting multi-cultural feel to this place that immediately stands out. The french influence is apparent both in the architecture and the foods, as there are sandwich stands (bread! dear god they have BREAD!) every 10 metres. The power either cuts out or is shut off at nighttime, so the nightlife is rather sedated. That's fine by me though, being the early bird that I am.
Though it is so nice here, I've decided to head northeast to the mountain village of Nong Khiaw tomorrow. I'm not sure what to expect there, but that isn't surprising given how little I know about Asia in general.
On a side note, I've just gotten word from Sam that he will be meeting me in Bangkok on March 4. Although this requires me to modify my travel "plans" (ha! as if I'm remotely organized!), it is a really great turn of events and I'm looking forward to adventuring with him for 10 days or so.
Though it is so nice here, I've decided to head northeast to the mountain village of Nong Khiaw tomorrow. I'm not sure what to expect there, but that isn't surprising given how little I know about Asia in general.
On a side note, I've just gotten word from Sam that he will be meeting me in Bangkok on March 4. Although this requires me to modify my travel "plans" (ha! as if I'm remotely organized!), it is a really great turn of events and I'm looking forward to adventuring with him for 10 days or so.
Sunday, January 28, 2007
What a ride
(Written 25 January, 2007)
6 hours aboard a very overbooked slow boat cruising down the Mekong river put me in a peaceful state of mind despite the crowded conditions. Once I got off the boat though, it was a very different story. We arrived at the halfway point between Chiang Khong(Thailand) and Luang Prabang (Laos) as the sun was setting, only to be greeted ("swarmed" is probably a more accurate term) by about 50 guys trying to get us to stay at their guesthouses. While they are each scrabbling over each other to get your business ("Don't stay with him, they have crazy dog every room!"), 50 other guys are climbing back onto the boat you just came in on to grab the bags and bring them to the shore. "How nice", we thought, "they're bringing our bags over for us". I quickly found out that while we were all being distracted by everything happening around us ("You have guest house?", "Where you go?", "We have spaghetti!"), the porters are quietly walking up the hill and away from the boats. You see, if nobody stops them to claim their bag the guys just keep on walking, not stopping until they get home. It's nearly dark, and 300 clueless tourists are spinning around in circles trying to find their bags, secure a guesthouse (the night before, 150 tourists had to sleep outside on balconies because the town ran out of rooms), and make dinner plans with the friends they made on the boat ride. Good times!
I'm not sure how, but I wound up in a group with a lovely Danish couple (Anders and Edde), a Canadian/French guy, and a Israeli who I soon found out was an absolute penny pincher and rude to boot. Can you guess who I wound up sharing not only a room with, but in fact a slab of concrete posing as a bed too? I guess bartering is a part of daily life in Israel, but I wouldn't have imagined someone spending so much effort to hedge twenty cents off the price of his dinner. Oy vay!
It was all very worth it though, if not for the adventure alone than for the truly magnificent views down the Mekong river. Unbelievable. I'm actually looking forward to the 8 hour stretch tomorrow.
6 hours aboard a very overbooked slow boat cruising down the Mekong river put me in a peaceful state of mind despite the crowded conditions. Once I got off the boat though, it was a very different story. We arrived at the halfway point between Chiang Khong(Thailand) and Luang Prabang (Laos) as the sun was setting, only to be greeted ("swarmed" is probably a more accurate term) by about 50 guys trying to get us to stay at their guesthouses. While they are each scrabbling over each other to get your business ("Don't stay with him, they have crazy dog every room!"), 50 other guys are climbing back onto the boat you just came in on to grab the bags and bring them to the shore. "How nice", we thought, "they're bringing our bags over for us". I quickly found out that while we were all being distracted by everything happening around us ("You have guest house?", "Where you go?", "We have spaghetti!"), the porters are quietly walking up the hill and away from the boats. You see, if nobody stops them to claim their bag the guys just keep on walking, not stopping until they get home. It's nearly dark, and 300 clueless tourists are spinning around in circles trying to find their bags, secure a guesthouse (the night before, 150 tourists had to sleep outside on balconies because the town ran out of rooms), and make dinner plans with the friends they made on the boat ride. Good times!
I'm not sure how, but I wound up in a group with a lovely Danish couple (Anders and Edde), a Canadian/French guy, and a Israeli who I soon found out was an absolute penny pincher and rude to boot. Can you guess who I wound up sharing not only a room with, but in fact a slab of concrete posing as a bed too? I guess bartering is a part of daily life in Israel, but I wouldn't have imagined someone spending so much effort to hedge twenty cents off the price of his dinner. Oy vay!
It was all very worth it though, if not for the adventure alone than for the truly magnificent views down the Mekong river. Unbelievable. I'm actually looking forward to the 8 hour stretch tomorrow.
At the border
(Written 24 January, 2007)
After escaping the headache that is Chiang Mai and battling a cold in Chiang Rai for three days, I've arrived at Thailand/Laos border. I've been quite surprised by Chiang Khong, in that I heard nothing about it except as a gateway to Laos and yet it is quite a charming little town. One of the first things I noticed was that there seems to be lots of people out exercising in the form of futball, ta kraew, volleyball, and biking. The last is perhaps the most noteworthy, as I get the impression that this would be a road bikers heaven. There are seemingly endless stretches of rural roads that lead to beautiful countryside. I explored such a road for just a few kilometres outside of Chiang Khong and wound up riding through a Hmong village made up of about 30 bamboo houses.
Though it is a nice place, the time has come to cross over into Laos. Tomorrow I begin a two-day boat trip down the Mekong to Luang Prabang.
After escaping the headache that is Chiang Mai and battling a cold in Chiang Rai for three days, I've arrived at Thailand/Laos border. I've been quite surprised by Chiang Khong, in that I heard nothing about it except as a gateway to Laos and yet it is quite a charming little town. One of the first things I noticed was that there seems to be lots of people out exercising in the form of futball, ta kraew, volleyball, and biking. The last is perhaps the most noteworthy, as I get the impression that this would be a road bikers heaven. There are seemingly endless stretches of rural roads that lead to beautiful countryside. I explored such a road for just a few kilometres outside of Chiang Khong and wound up riding through a Hmong village made up of about 30 bamboo houses.
Though it is a nice place, the time has come to cross over into Laos. Tomorrow I begin a two-day boat trip down the Mekong to Luang Prabang.
Saturday, January 20, 2007
Nearly at the top.
I couldn't take it anymore. I had to get out of Chiang Mai. If ever there were a tourist trap, that place is it. I checked out of a guest house this morning, then took a bus three hours north east to Chiang Rai. It's only been a couple of hours, but so far I'm glad I came here.
On a lower note, I've been feeling a bit down since yesterday. I don't know if it's the cold (don't know where I picked it up) or the loneliness, but I hope to get back on a high note soon.
On a lower note, I've been feeling a bit down since yesterday. I don't know if it's the cold (don't know where I picked it up) or the loneliness, but I hope to get back on a high note soon.
Monday, January 15, 2007
Laa Kawn, Ayuthaya!
I'll be leaving Ayuthaya by train tomorrow night, heading 12 hours north to Chiang Mai. I may have alluded to the friendliness of Thai people, but in the mere 2.5 days that I've been in Ayuthaya I have been offered 2 jobs, been taken to see the sunset at a famous wat by a woman who I suspect might be the wealthiest person on the island, shared a watermelon with her hilarious twin daughters, been given 30 oranges, and played a speaking role in a Thai student film. Oh, and I ran into a baby elephant at a night market. Literally. He won.
(written 1/14/07
(written 1/14/07
Ayuthaya
(written 1/12/07)
After a 1.5 hour train ride from Bangkok (costing a mere 15 baht!), I arrived here in Ayuthaya not really knowing what to expect. It is basically an island-city, with one side (closest to the travellers getting off the train) very busy, and the other half full of very old wats (temples) and prangs (ummm, yeah prangs). Without planning to, I stumbled upon a nearly perfect sunset at one such place. There were two games of pickup football (soccer) happening at the base of the prang in question and it was just such a serene moment. I think I'll hire a bicycle tomorrow to have a better look around.
As an interesting aside, the dogs here want to eat me. Well...not all of them, but there have been several instances where a pack of dogs sleeping literally in the middle of the road oblivious to the near proximity of tire treads to their stupid heads will suddenly leap to attention and come at me all fired up for a fight when I try to sneak by. But what they don't realize is that I refuse to become lunch meat for a bunch of ornery fur-faced mongrels! Back, you fiends!
After a 1.5 hour train ride from Bangkok (costing a mere 15 baht!), I arrived here in Ayuthaya not really knowing what to expect. It is basically an island-city, with one side (closest to the travellers getting off the train) very busy, and the other half full of very old wats (temples) and prangs (ummm, yeah prangs). Without planning to, I stumbled upon a nearly perfect sunset at one such place. There were two games of pickup football (soccer) happening at the base of the prang in question and it was just such a serene moment. I think I'll hire a bicycle tomorrow to have a better look around.
As an interesting aside, the dogs here want to eat me. Well...not all of them, but there have been several instances where a pack of dogs sleeping literally in the middle of the road oblivious to the near proximity of tire treads to their stupid heads will suddenly leap to attention and come at me all fired up for a fight when I try to sneak by. But what they don't realize is that I refuse to become lunch meat for a bunch of ornery fur-faced mongrels! Back, you fiends!
Thursday, January 11, 2007
The sense of Bangkok
I wish that I could conjure up an image of what I expected Bangkok to be like before I arrived here. The rushing tide of incoming sensory information that I’ve experienced in the last four days has completely washed out the details of whatever preconceived notions I might have had about the place beforehand. My ideas were undoubtedly both under and over the mark.
Here comes the understatement of the ages: I had expected to encounter many new sights and sounds in Bangkok. Ha! What I hadn’t expected was to experience a constant feeling of having all five senses electrified throughout the course of a day. The sheer volume of sounds here are enough to stun the senses for 24 hours or so. The snarling canal boats (going from 0 to 20 knots in just a few seconds) and roaring tuk-tuks are constant conversation-stoppers throughout the city. At the same time, the Thai who live here seem to have struck some sort of balance with their city such that they are able to go about the task of carrying on day-to-day conversations without shouting, despite being surrounded by the chaos of a large city on the move.
But why settle for only engaging the sense of hearing? The sights, sounds, and texture of this city are equally impressive. You are expected to remove your footwear in every Buddhist temple and in every home, and it quickly became apparent to me that the feel of clean, polished stones underfoot is a significant part of the experience. At every opportunity to do so, I take my sandals off just to savor the feeling of exploring the one part of our environment that we most often overlook despite its constant presence: the ground beneath our feet.
And the smells…where shall I begin! From the spicy aroma of what seems to be a million woks frying at all hours of the day and night, to the pungent smell of concentrated sewage water in the city’s canals, this place is a three-ring circus for the nose.
After staying her for longer than I had anticipated, it’s time to move on to new territory. I’m heading north to Ayuthaya as the first stop en route to Chiang Mai and eventually Chiang Rai. I am so very grateful to Ton and her family for being such wonderful hosts. Between the simply delicious food (aroi!) and Ton’s patience in teaching me how to get around in this city, I consider myself incredibly fortunate in being able to receive a small yet authentic sampling of the masterpiece that is Bangkok. Khawp Khun!
Here comes the understatement of the ages: I had expected to encounter many new sights and sounds in Bangkok. Ha! What I hadn’t expected was to experience a constant feeling of having all five senses electrified throughout the course of a day. The sheer volume of sounds here are enough to stun the senses for 24 hours or so. The snarling canal boats (going from 0 to 20 knots in just a few seconds) and roaring tuk-tuks are constant conversation-stoppers throughout the city. At the same time, the Thai who live here seem to have struck some sort of balance with their city such that they are able to go about the task of carrying on day-to-day conversations without shouting, despite being surrounded by the chaos of a large city on the move.
But why settle for only engaging the sense of hearing? The sights, sounds, and texture of this city are equally impressive. You are expected to remove your footwear in every Buddhist temple and in every home, and it quickly became apparent to me that the feel of clean, polished stones underfoot is a significant part of the experience. At every opportunity to do so, I take my sandals off just to savor the feeling of exploring the one part of our environment that we most often overlook despite its constant presence: the ground beneath our feet.
And the smells…where shall I begin! From the spicy aroma of what seems to be a million woks frying at all hours of the day and night, to the pungent smell of concentrated sewage water in the city’s canals, this place is a three-ring circus for the nose.
After staying her for longer than I had anticipated, it’s time to move on to new territory. I’m heading north to Ayuthaya as the first stop en route to Chiang Mai and eventually Chiang Rai. I am so very grateful to Ton and her family for being such wonderful hosts. Between the simply delicious food (aroi!) and Ton’s patience in teaching me how to get around in this city, I consider myself incredibly fortunate in being able to receive a small yet authentic sampling of the masterpiece that is Bangkok. Khawp Khun!
Southeast Asia on my mind.
In less than an hour, I'm going to Thailand. Me! When I think about the kind of person that would travel solo around the world and return with tales of adventure in foreign lands, I just don't see myself. I imagine them to be resourceful, savvy, and (most of all) fearless. Umm not me, not me, and yeah not me. It's as if my brain has made some very drastic decisions that affect my well-being, without consulting the rest of me for support. The irony of it all is that I probably won't develop confidence in my ability to handle such unfamiliar territory until it's all done with and I've survived, many months from now.
(written 1/7/07)
(written 1/7/07)
Monday, January 01, 2007
Happy New Year!
After watching the New Year ring in from the Yarra river's north shore in Melbourne last night, I now find myself comparing my future ambitions with my previous plans. Back in September, I had planned on travelling to Sydney and Darwin. Not longer after that, I decided (more or less on a whim) to fly instead up to Brisbane. I had never been there, and thought that it might be a good place to look for work in a dive boat. Four days in the city convinced me that I should move on. It is a nice enough city, but seemed rather dull to me. I decided to go down to Byron Bay to see what the fuss about the place is all about. For a small hippy town, it sure did have a strong sense of tourism. Although I worked for Sundive dive shop for a few days, I couldn't see myself settling there for any extended period of time. On a whim once again (are you sensing a pattern here?), I then flew up to Cairns with high hopes of finding a boat to work on.
After just a few days on the Esplanade, I felt comfortable enough in the town to move into an apartment building in the traditional Queenslander style. It was there that I spent the next two months or so. I did manage to find work stints on three different boats (RumRunner, Compass, and Spoilsport), but learned a few frustrating lessons about the dive industry in the process. While in Cairns, I also had the chance to meet a few interesting people, including Markus (my German roommate), Giulia (Italian housemate), and Zara (who works at the YHA Esplanade hostel). Also, I met a very talented young musician by the name of Simone Ellias. It wouldn't surprise me if her songs made it onto Australian music radio stations within a few years.
As I said, I'm back in Melbourne now. Well actually, I'm back at Mikey's place in Geelong with plans to hang out until it's time to fly off to Thailand on a week's time.
While the series of coordinated bombings in Bangkok last night are disturbing, I don't feel that the threat is great enough to warrant revising my plans.
After just a few days on the Esplanade, I felt comfortable enough in the town to move into an apartment building in the traditional Queenslander style. It was there that I spent the next two months or so. I did manage to find work stints on three different boats (RumRunner, Compass, and Spoilsport), but learned a few frustrating lessons about the dive industry in the process. While in Cairns, I also had the chance to meet a few interesting people, including Markus (my German roommate), Giulia (Italian housemate), and Zara (who works at the YHA Esplanade hostel). Also, I met a very talented young musician by the name of Simone Ellias. It wouldn't surprise me if her songs made it onto Australian music radio stations within a few years.
As I said, I'm back in Melbourne now. Well actually, I'm back at Mikey's place in Geelong with plans to hang out until it's time to fly off to Thailand on a week's time.
While the series of coordinated bombings in Bangkok last night are disturbing, I don't feel that the threat is great enough to warrant revising my plans.
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